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Empty Plate
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British A2- PG13
Avg: 2.2 from 5
votes
Routes in Westwind Buttress
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Check the Technique T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Eastwind Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Empty Plate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A2- PG13 |
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Expect No Mercy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fat Boy Slim T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Flippin' the Bird T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Grumpy Old Men T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Last of The Summer Wine T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sacrifice T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Separation Anxiety T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sit and Spin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Textbook Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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True Grit (Var.) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Warhorse T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 40.57454, -111.75817 |
| FA: | James Garrett and Franziska Garrett, 18 June 2005 |
| Page Views: | 1,710 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | James Garrett on Jun 20, 2006 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Pitch #1: Climb the first pitch of Standard Thumb to the gully belay. Belay at a two bolt belay. 5.6, 140'.
Pitch #2: Continue in the gully on the Standard Thumb route to a two bolt belay. 5.7.
Pitch #3: Here, ascend out of the Gully onto Westwind Buttress past three bolts on a steep blank section to a thin crack/seam. The seam ends and you will pass more fixed bolts to mixed ground to a two bolt belay on a ledge. 5.9, A2. 110'.
Pitch #4. Turn the corner to the left and climb the thin steep crack and sling chicken heads and clip bolts to a small airy ledge with a two bolt belay. 5.7, A1. 90'.
Pitch #5: Fun climbing passing the knobs and 7 bolts to the end of the climb...just 15 feet below the actual summit. The rock quality deteriorates the higher up one climbs...the last pitch didn't deliver as promised...an empty plate. 5.8, A1
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