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Routes in Westwind Buttress

Check the Technique T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eastwind Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Empty Plate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A2- PG13
Expect No Mercy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fat Boy Slim T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Flippin' the Bird T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grumpy Old Men T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Last of The Summer Wine T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sacrifice T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Separation Anxiety T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sit and Spin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Textbook Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
True Grit (Var.) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Warhorse T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
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Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: George Lowe and Dick Ream, 1967
Page Views: 91 total · 1/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Jun 20, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description [Edit]

On a recent ascent, many bushes were cleaned out and this makes for a fun very long 1st and 2nd pitch up a fun right facing dihedral. More traffic would clean it up more, but probably doesn't get many ascents.
We climbed to the top of EXPECT NO MERCY and then on to EMPTY PLATE

Location [Edit]

See Ruckman Guide. It is the left facing dihedral to the left or west of EXPECT NO MERCY
Rappel from anchors to east or walk down to the west or rappel from trees.

Protection [Edit]

Set of Nuts and Camalots to 3.5
No fixed gear encountered except old rotted slings on trees.


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A fun route--James, thanks for all the gardening! May 9, 2010
Park City, UT
thehackattacks   Park City, UT
Very bushy, dirty and not trafficked. I recommend just climbing the dihedral until its near end, which is amongst a clump of trees. From here you can rappel from the tree with old slings on it. This gets you down to the rap rings of Expect No Mercy? Attempting to top off on westwind buttress from this route became tree-climbing, not rock climbing so I suggest just being content with the dihedral climb- which was varied and pretty fun at times. Jun 10, 2014

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