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Routes in Westwind Buttress

Check the Technique T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eastwind Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Empty Plate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A2- PG13
Expect No Mercy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fat Boy Slim T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Flippin' the Bird T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grumpy Old Men T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Last of The Summer Wine T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sacrifice T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Separation Anxiety T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sit and Spin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Textbook Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
True Grit (Var.) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Warhorse T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
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Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Equiped by Ian Neilson, FFA- Brad Heller
Page Views: 4,562 total, 50/month
Shared By: bheller on Jun 29, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

The Climb

First off, I did not name this route.

From the base of the route, climb up the easy chimney/corner to the right of the steeply overhanging wall. After about 40 feet a horizontal shelf appears that allows one to climb left 40 feet, surmount the lip, and reach the upper slab/face. This rail traverse cuts straight across the 30 degree overhang and the beauty of its position is only matched by the awkwardness of its climbing. At the end of the rail traverse, a final powerful boulder problem guards the mantle onto the slab. Once established on the slab, easy climbing leads to the first bolt, and then delicate face climbing allows you to clutch and mantle a sloping chickenhead and clip the second bolt. This is where it gets interesting- now reverse that mantle and head straight left across a line of chickenheads for about 10 feet. Next climb straight up about 10 more feet until you get your feet established on the horizontal seam that diagonally cuts across the upper face at 2/3rds height. Now, calm your pulse and execute the delicate rightward traverse, walking your feet on the seam, until you can stand on another large chickenhead and clip the 3rd and last bolt. From this last stance, step down and right and execute the final fingery, balancey, face crux. Bring your sharpest shoes and your best poise! Rejoice after sticking the moves, and remember to enjoy cruising the easy moves to the anchors.

A Historical Note: Ian Neilson had incredible vision to pursue the climbing potential out the traversing rail. After cleaning the route from the top down, he placed all but one of the bolts on lead from stances. He even lassoed a chickenhead. He climbed everything on this route except the extemely blank, holdless terrain above the 2nd bolt(holds have also since broken on the upper boulder problem, rendering it far more difficult). I climbed this route(with Ian's permission) using a runout leftward variation from his intended line. The variation rejoins just above the blank section that has yet to reveal its climbing sequence. The blank section may never go free, but who knows? If one were to unlock the sequence for the blank section, a large slingable chickenhead between the 2nd and 3rd bolt reduces the fall consequences dramatically. The leftward variation skirts the blank face, as well as the slingable chicken head.

The Hang

This route climbs the chickenhead speckled face on the far left side of the Perserverence Buttress. Some creative up and down 5th class scrambling leads to a nice belay spot under the huge overhanging wall. A 70 meter rope is needed to rappel, but this is really a route for which you want to use double rope technique.

The Gears

Two nested cams and 3 bolts in 35 meters. The two nested cams protect the traverse boulder problem. Additional .75-1" cams could be placed to protect the moves before the gear nest- but rope drag is definatley an issue. For the gear nest, I used a grey metolius supercam and a red metolius master cam, and equalized them. I felt 100% climbing above this gear. You do have to climb 10-12 feet left of the cams and then mantle, so the fall would be an exciting swing! On the face above, I clipped the first bolt with a normal draw, and the second bolt with a double length runner (4ft) to reduce rope drag. Standard quickdraw on final bolt. Chain anchor on top(thanks Tenesmus).

Photos

Your Mom is a Free Route... Jul 16, 2010
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
Proud addition to the Westwind. I like that this route entailed a large community effort. Everyone should get credit where it's due. Since the intent was to create a free route from the outset, in my opinion Brad gets the naming rights. Jul 10, 2010
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
I'll add a stroke. Nice work, Brad! One of these days I've got to get over my notion that I climbed enough granite last century to ever set foot on it again and actually head into LCC. Jul 2, 2010
No kool-aid for you until you finish it. Jul 2, 2010
You're all Dicks. I'll cry if I want to. Four days of excavating mud and bushes and death scrambling to put in the anchor and your trying to dilute my kool-aid. Crybaby Fo' Realz! Jul 1, 2010
Wow, what a stroke-fest! Nice job sticking it out there Brad. Sounds like another bolt would be nice if it wasn't for the damn kid and his ideals!

I like Crybaby for a number of reasons, but My Little Pony seems like a nice compromise. After all the flogging, someone needs to flash the thing and settle it once and for all! Jun 30, 2010
zoso  
So it's settled: My Little Pony Jun 30, 2010
Strong work, Brad! S Jun 30, 2010
Brad mentioned "My little Pony", and Laugh I did... Jun 30, 2010
Ian, that's still a burly line. You and I have had some laughs at how silly we were to each other over that whole situation. I'll admit I was an idiot for the way I got frustrated. Life gets me by the throat sometimes and I really let it show then. Part of the learning curve for both of us.

You named it Crybaby because of our argument. But then you told me you called it Warhorse or something like that because you were trying to move past our disagreement. I stopped talking about this a long time ago and don't remember mentioning that name to anyone although I did see it associated with the photo Andy shared on utahclimbers. I think Crybaby is hilarious - mostly because it shows how dumb we were but especially because it reflects on both of us and I'm fine with that.

After you called it War Horse, I always kind of chuckled inside and in my mind called it "My Little Pony". I always thought you'd laugh at that too. Jun 30, 2010
Zac Robinson
Salt Lake City, UT
Zac Robinson   Salt Lake City, UT
gosh. that diamond face has been begging for it for a while.

I saw the fixed line up there, and then today it was gone.

congrats! super proud! Jun 30, 2010
Nice work Brad! psyched you figured out the free climbing above the second bolt. Proud FFA. I spent a lot of time and energy equipping this route with Clay Watson. I named it Crybaby but Brad decided he didnt like the name. I still think the first ascentionist should have the right to name the climb. I told the Info Nympho :) Crybaby was the name. interesting that he mentioned that he didnt name it even though I specifically requested he post it under its origional name...

Also, this was my first new routing experience. ALL the bolts were drilled on the lead from stances. I used a fixed line to free my stuck bolt kit before drilling the third bolt. Not the purest style but everyone goes through the learning curve. Jun 29, 2010
apross  
very nice. Jun 29, 2010
Excellent work Brad! Jun 29, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
excellent and inspiring! great pics too btw. Jun 29, 2010
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Really this route only deserves 2.5 stars- purely due to typical east-facing LCC grainy rock- I couldn't get myself to only give it 2 stars though! The traversing rail offers unforgettable position that is rivaled by very few climbs in the Wasatch. Jun 29, 2010