Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Equiped by Ian Neilson, FFA- Brad Heller
Page Views: 5,051 total · 43/month
Shared By: bheller on Jun 29, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

The Climb

First off, I did not name this route.

From the base of the route, climb up the easy chimney/corner to the right of the steeply overhanging wall. After about 40 feet a horizontal shelf appears that allows one to climb left 40 feet, surmount the lip, and reach the upper slab/face. This rail traverse cuts straight across the 30 degree overhang and the beauty of its position is only matched by the awkwardness of its climbing. At the end of the rail traverse, a final powerful boulder problem guards the mantle onto the slab. Once established on the slab, easy climbing leads to the first bolt, and then delicate face climbing allows you to clutch and mantle a sloping chickenhead and clip the second bolt. This is where it gets interesting- now reverse that mantle and head straight left across a line of chickenheads for about 10 feet. Next climb straight up about 10 more feet until you get your feet established on the horizontal seam that diagonally cuts across the upper face at 2/3rds height. Now, calm your pulse and execute the delicate rightward traverse, walking your feet on the seam, until you can stand on another large chickenhead and clip the 3rd and last bolt. From this last stance, step down and right and execute the final fingery, balancey, face crux. Bring your sharpest shoes and your best poise! Rejoice after sticking the moves, and remember to enjoy cruising the easy moves to the anchors.

A Historical Note: Ian Neilson had incredible vision to pursue the climbing potential out the traversing rail. After cleaning the route from the top down, he placed all but one of the bolts on lead from stances. He even lassoed a chickenhead. He climbed everything on this route except the extemely blank, holdless terrain above the 2nd bolt(holds have also since broken on the upper boulder problem, rendering it far more difficult). I climbed this route(with Ian's permission) using a runout leftward variation from his intended line. The variation rejoins just above the blank section that has yet to reveal its climbing sequence. The blank section may never go free, but who knows? If one were to unlock the sequence for the blank section, a large slingable chickenhead between the 2nd and 3rd bolt reduces the fall consequences dramatically. The leftward variation skirts the blank face, as well as the slingable chicken head.

The Hang

This route climbs the chickenhead speckled face on the far left side of the Perserverence Buttress. Some creative up and down 5th class scrambling leads to a nice belay spot under the huge overhanging wall. A 70 meter rope is needed to rappel, but this is really a route for which you want to use double rope technique.

The Gears

Two nested cams and 3 bolts in 35 meters. The two nested cams protect the traverse boulder problem. Additional .75-1" cams could be placed to protect the moves before the gear nest- but rope drag is definatley an issue. For the gear nest, I used a grey metolius supercam and a red metolius master cam, and equalized them. I felt 100% climbing above this gear. You do have to climb 10-12 feet left of the cams and then mantle, so the fall would be an exciting swing! On the face above, I clipped the first bolt with a normal draw, and the second bolt with a double length runner (4ft) to reduce rope drag. Standard quickdraw on final bolt. Chain anchor on top(thanks Tenesmus).

Photos