Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 110 ft|
|FA:||Equiped by Ian Neilson, FFA- Brad Heller|
|Page Views:||5,051 total · 43/month|
|Shared By:||bheller on Jun 29, 2010|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
From the base of the route, climb up the easy chimney/corner to the right of the steeply overhanging wall. After about 40 feet a horizontal shelf appears that allows one to climb left 40 feet, surmount the lip, and reach the upper slab/face. This rail traverse cuts straight across the 30 degree overhang and the beauty of its position is only matched by the awkwardness of its climbing. At the end of the rail traverse, a final powerful boulder problem guards the mantle onto the slab. Once established on the slab, easy climbing leads to the first bolt, and then delicate face climbing allows you to clutch and mantle a sloping chickenhead and clip the second bolt. This is where it gets interesting- now reverse that mantle and head straight left across a line of chickenheads for about 10 feet. Next climb straight up about 10 more feet until you get your feet established on the horizontal seam that diagonally cuts across the upper face at 2/3rds height. Now, calm your pulse and execute the delicate rightward traverse, walking your feet on the seam, until you can stand on another large chickenhead and clip the 3rd and last bolt. From this last stance, step down and right and execute the final fingery, balancey, face crux. Bring your sharpest shoes and your best poise! Rejoice after sticking the moves, and remember to enjoy cruising the easy moves to the anchors.
A Historical Note: Ian Neilson had incredible vision to pursue the climbing potential out the traversing rail. After cleaning the route from the top down, he placed all but one of the bolts on lead from stances. He even lassoed a chickenhead. He climbed everything on this route except the extemely blank, holdless terrain above the 2nd bolt(holds have also since broken on the upper boulder problem, rendering it far more difficult). I climbed this route(with Ian's permission) using a runout leftward variation from his intended line. The variation rejoins just above the blank section that has yet to reveal its climbing sequence. The blank section may never go free, but who knows? If one were to unlock the sequence for the blank section, a large slingable chickenhead between the 2nd and 3rd bolt reduces the fall consequences dramatically. The leftward variation skirts the blank face, as well as the slingable chicken head.