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Routes in Westwind Buttress

Check the Technique T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eastwind Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Empty Plate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A2- PG13
Expect No Mercy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fat Boy Slim T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Flippin' the Bird T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grumpy Old Men T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Last of The Summer Wine T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sacrifice T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Separation Anxiety T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sit and Spin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Textbook Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
True Grit (Var.) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Warhorse T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: K. Jameson, P. Manley, 1982
Page Views: 98 total · 1/month
Shared By: mountainsense on May 9, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

A recent No Star tick, True Grit, despite its appearance, offered consistently exciting and engaging climbing--an acquired taste, if you will. From a ledge located a few body lengths to the south of Sacrifice (5.10d, L. Wheeler, J. Newsome, 1980), climb a right-leaning handcrack leading to a series of thin, friable flakes. Hold your breath as you lieback the wafer-thinness to a stance from where it is possible to traverse right and into a steep gully. Surmount a short section of squeeze then climb past a few keyed-in pillars to a stance with a cordelette anchor and maillon. This one might clean up nicely with about a million more ascents.

Location

True Grit can be found to the looker's left of the obvious, "guillotine flake" above the Sacrifice finger crack. Rap the route with a single, or continue up the Westwind Crack.

Protection

Bring medium to large Hexentrics, small to large Chouinard straight-tapered Stoppers, a #1 Forged Friend, a small Campbell nut--absolutely key for this route--and two large bongs for the flakes in the gully. Or, a standard LCC rack will do--bring lots of long slings!

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tenesmus  
 
Did this today and really liked it. If it got done more, it would clean up to a pretty good crack. Especially if someone gave it some hammer and wire brush loving it would make a huge difference. Loads and loads of hand jams and gear all over the place. Also, I must be getting old because it felt like old school 5.8. As in, some of the moves are as difficult as the crux of Satan's. Apr 15, 2017

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