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Routes in Westwind Buttress

Check the Technique T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eastwind Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Empty Plate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A2- PG13
Expect No Mercy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fat Boy Slim T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Flippin' the Bird T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grumpy Old Men T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Last of The Summer Wine T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sacrifice T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Separation Anxiety T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sit and Spin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Textbook Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
True Grit (Var.) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Warhorse T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Lynn Wheeler and Jeff Newsome 1980
Page Views: 281 total · 16/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Apr 15, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Super fun route with high flow moves. Start on a small flake then do a couple of moves on surprising chicken heads and edges to get into the crack system proper.

The finger crack has loads of gear that can be hard to see at the crux. Its all there so try and scope it out first. Finish on the surprisingly fun huge-block-flake-thing using wide gear.


Start 20' right and uphill of True Grit Variation in a thin crack above the obvious water streak.


Doubles to #1, then #2, 3 and 4 to finish. You can either stop at a 2-bolt anchor or move up to the huge tree. This has tons of rap tat that would be useful to remove. A 70m rope gets you down from either belay.


Its amazing how much more fun a climb is when its clean! We knocked out the brush and mud and grit, making this one of the cleanest finger cracks in LCC.
If you go up there, be sure to bring a wire brush and a painter's brush to scrub and clean again. Apr 15, 2017

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