Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Lynn Wheeler and Jeff Newsome 1980
Page Views: 316 total · 16/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Apr 15, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Super fun route with high flow moves. Start on a small flake then do a couple of moves on surprising chicken heads and edges to get into the crack system proper.

The finger crack has loads of gear that can be hard to see at the crux. Its all there so try and scope it out first. Finish on the surprisingly fun huge-block-flake-thing using wide gear.

Location

Start 20' right and uphill of True Grit Variation in a thin crack above the obvious water streak.

Protection

Doubles to #1, then #2, 3 and 4 to finish. You can either stop at a 2-bolt anchor or move up to the huge tree. This has tons of rap tat that would be useful to remove. A 70m rope gets you down from either belay.

Photos

tenesmus
  5.10d
tenesmus  
  5.10d
Its amazing how much more fun a climb is when its clean! We knocked out the brush and mud and grit, making this one of the cleanest finger cracks in LCC.
If you go up there, be sure to bring a wire brush and a painter's brush to scrub and clean again. Apr 15, 2017