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Routes in Westwind Buttress

Check the Technique T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eastwind Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Empty Plate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A2- PG13
Expect No Mercy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fat Boy Slim T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Flippin' the Bird T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grumpy Old Men T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Last of The Summer Wine T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sacrifice T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Separation Anxiety T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sit and Spin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Textbook Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
True Grit (Var.) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Warhorse T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Kent Jameson and Pat Manley, 1982
Page Views: 590 total, 5/month
Shared By: tenesmus on May 4, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is a nice offwidth to hand crack. It has just enough features and chimneying to make it a non-suffer type of offwidth. Much less of a thrutch than the ow on Crescent Crack (for reference).

Location

There is a pine tree where Westwind Butress meets up with a gully on its bottom and left.

Protection

A few runners, medium nuts, a TCU or two and .75-#6 Camalot. You can exit the crack system about where there is a chockstone on edges right of the crack and there are two good nut placements in the crack on that right face. If you walk straight right and not up you can get to the bomber and new anchors of Grumpy old Men. Its really easy but a little runnout as long as you don't go too high. Otherwise, there is a nice chockstone belay and/or a tree with old, horrible slings on it from which to rap.

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