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Routes in Westwind Buttress

Check the Technique T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eastwind Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Empty Plate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A2- PG13
Expect No Mercy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fat Boy Slim T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Flippin' the Bird T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grumpy Old Men T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Last of The Summer Wine T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sacrifice T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Separation Anxiety T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sit and Spin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Textbook Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
True Grit (Var.) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Warhorse T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: S. Ohkawa, B. Rush, 16 April, 2010
Page Views: 5,480 total, 59/month
Shared By: mountainsense on Apr 29, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Check the Technique was the first route to be opened on the Perseverance Wall. Climb the right-leaning, fist-to-offwidth crack along the left side of the obvious flake-pillar. From a stance atop the flake, step left onto the beautiful slab past perfect diorite knobs and four bolts to an arching arete. Lieback this feature to an alcove; a large, slung horn provides a belay. This route is dedicated to the memory of Guru--Hip-Hop pioneer and MC founder of the seminal duo, Gang Starr--who passed away just days after it was established. RIP!

Location

Check the Technique rises from the narrow ledge to the looker's left--about 50 feet--of the start to the route Perseverance (5.10, K. Jameson, M. Todd, K. Gygi, 1982). It begins in a crack forming the left margin of a prominent flake, which rises from the ledge. A two-bolt rap anchor, about 25 feet to the right of the start, provides an escape; if descending with a single 60m or 70m, downclimb the 3rd class gully--two ropes (recommended) will reach the base of the 3rd class.

Protection

Bring along 4" and 5" pieces--we used two each: #4, #5 BD Camalot--for the initial crack, in addition to four draws for the bolts. A finger-sized cam fits nicely above the final arete; be sure to bring some longer slings, too! Rap or lower from the anchor--beware of rope drag!
apross
 
apross  
 
Fixe SS Ring Anchors were installed on 7 November, 2016. From this new, two-bolt fixed anchor, it is possible to rappel back to the ledge with a 60m, but with directionals in situ, TR/lower from Check the Technique and Separation Anxiety (to the looker's left) with a 70m. ENJOY! Nov 9, 2016
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
  5.10-
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
  5.10-
Fun route with a multitude of techniques to check. Used a #6 camalot on the initial ow, ymmv. Easiest approach in the canyon. Apr 18, 2011
apross
 
apross  
 
This is one of the best routes put up in the canyon since...........the last one Shingo put up.

A good find. Apr 30, 2010
Todd Green
SLC, UT
  5.10-
Todd Green   SLC, UT
  5.10-
Strong work Mr. Yellow. Great eye and greater endurance to hand drill all those bolts ground up in a single go. Muito respeito! This route is a must do if you take the time to hike up to the wall. Apr 29, 2010