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Routes in Westwind Buttress

Check the Technique T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eastwind Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Empty Plate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A2- PG13
Expect No Mercy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fat Boy Slim T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Flippin' the Bird T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grumpy Old Men T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Last of The Summer Wine T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sacrifice T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Separation Anxiety T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sit and Spin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Textbook Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
True Grit (Var.) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Warhorse T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
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Type: Trad, Aid, 450 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: James Garrett and Franziska Garrett, 18 June 2005
Page Views: 786 total · 5/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Jun 20, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description


Pitch #1: Climb the first pitch of Standard Thumb to the gully belay. Belay at a two bolt belay. 5.6, 140'.

Pitch #2: Continue in the gully on the Standard Thumb route to a two bolt belay. 5.7.

Pitch #3: Here, ascend out of the Gully onto Westwind Buttress past three bolts on a steep blank section to a thin crack/seam. The seam ends and you will pass more fixed bolts to mixed ground to a two bolt belay on a ledge. 5.9, A2. 110'.

Pitch #4. Turn the corner to the left and climb the thin steep crack and sling chicken heads and clip bolts to a small airy ledge with a two bolt belay. 5.7, A1. 90'.

Pitch #5: Fun climbing passing the knobs and 7 bolts to the end of the climb...just 15 feet below the actual summit. The rock quality deteriorates the higher up one climbs...the last pitch didn't deliver as promised...an empty plate. 5.8, A1

Location

East Face of Westwind Buttress.
Rappel the route with two ropes.

Protection

Most pitons were left in place. Take small selection.
A small selection of copper or alu heads.
Set of nuts and microcams.
Set of Camalots to #3
Assortment of hooks.

Please be sure to wear a helmet!

Photos

James Garrett
  5.9+ A2-
James Garrett  
  5.9+ A2-
This route was completed to the top where the rock does deteriorate quite a bit as expected....nevertheless, great exposure and position and fun climbing. Great pictures to or from S-Crack would be something for somebody. Really beautiful. Quite a bit of the aid could be freed now that the route is in, but I will wait on others to comment on the free rating of sections. Jul 7, 2006
Craig Martin
Park City
 
Craig Martin   Park City
 
I placed a couple heads, a couple of beaks and one knifeblade on the first pitch. Also found a hook hole, but I didn't bring a hook so I had to haul up a log I found in the gully to use as a cheater stick. Pretty comical. In hindsight I guess I could have used a beak in the hole, does that work in granite? All clean aid after the first pitch. Sep 17, 2006
James Garrett
  5.9+ A2-
James Garrett  
  5.9+ A2-
Craig,
You nabbed the second ascent of this one, too! I will have to put you on my private mailing list to get you the 2nd ascent on some fuuture ones coming up!....I didn't know you belonged to THE HANG DANGLE AND HEAD BASHING CROWD! Don't you just love placing heads? It is a part of climbing appreciated by few. Sep 18, 2006

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