All Locations > California > San Francisco B… > S Bay Area > Castle Rock & S… > Falls Area > Waterfall Cliff

The Falls - Direct Start

Name: The Falls - Direct Start
Rating: 2.9

5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British R

Routes in Waterfall Cliff

L › R R › L A › Z

	[Nice] Greeboo S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Above the Law S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Anti-Christ S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Black Dragon TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Charlie Solo T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Clamydia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Cleotitis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Convulsions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Degeneration T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Degeneration Left (AKA The Layback) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Dendritis TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Evil Bolt Greebo S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Excessive Force S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Falls - Alt Start, The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Falls - Direct Start, The S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
	Leading to Death T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Lieback Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Nausea TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Oracle, The S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	P(iece) O(f) S(hit) Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Putrefaction S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

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Type:	Sport, TR, 110 ft (33 m)
GPS:	37.2265, -122.1053
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	15,681 total · 60/month
Shared By:	Paul Rezucha on Sep 17, 2004 · Updates
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.

Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.

Description

The Falls starts 100' down directly below the observation deck on the stream bed beside two large fallen logs. This climb is actually on the left side of the waterfall and can easily be reached by walking down from the right side of the water falls climbs. The crux starts right off the ground and continues right to the first bolt 15' up. Pretty bold lead unless you are a solid 5.11 climber! Alternatively you can start on an easier variation that traverses in from the right.

The rest of the climb eases off to 5.6 - 5.8 and meanders a bit from bolt to bolt to the top. The spacing off the bolts is quite far apart and makes for a pretty intimidating lead. Don't lose concentration until you are actually standing up on top holding onto the observation deck support bars as the last few moves are quite hard and you are about 10' above the last bolt!

Protection

6 bolts to observation deck support anchors. The first bolt is 15' off the ground with the crux about 8-10' up. The landing is not great. One could stick clip the first bolt, climb to it from the right using second bolt as protection to get to it, or clip as you rappel down. The remainder of the climb is fairly continuous 5.6 - 5.8 on runout terrain! Trad gear poor.