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Routes in I. Washington Column
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Afroman T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3+ |
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Astroman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Direct Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Electric Ladyland 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ |
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History of the Future T A3 |
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Jo Jo T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mideast Crisis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2 |
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Nowhere Man T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pitch to Nowhere T A3 |
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Power Failure T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Prow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 |
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Re-Animator, The 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ |
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Skull Queen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 |
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South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 |
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Southern Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 |
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Ten Days After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3 |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Bryan Law solo, June 1997 |
| Page Views: | 12 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Bryan Law on Oct 3, 2024 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
History of the Future is a technical aid route that entails many head placements, thin nailing, a few hook, cam, and nut placements, and a little expando. The route consists of three pitches and was intended as a “base route” because the rock is blank above the third pitch and the upper half of the wall would entail low-angle easy climbing, which is unappealing. It’s a route for those wanting to play with aid hardware.
Pitch 1: Free climb up a low-angle slab to a right-facing flake that accepts cams up to a #5 Camalot. From a small shelf at the top of the flake, continue up on thin hardware then traverse left via two expanding flakes to the first belay. The smallest size SMC shallow angle and ballnuts are useful for the expanding sections on the upper part of the pitch.
Pitch 2: Traverse left along an arch on circleheads, then continue up past more head placements and a few rivets. For some strange reason, the David Bowie song Suffragette City was stuck in my head while placing circleheads along the arch (I’m not a Bowie fan), hence the “Circlehead City” name.
Pitch 3: A short crack and five rivets lead up and left to the main feature of the route – a nice, clean right-facing corner. The move from the fifth rivet to the corner is very reachy. Ascend the corner on heads and beaks, including a few pins and small cams on the upper part of the corner.
Rap the route in three rappels with two ropes.
See topo for details.
Location
History of the Future is the farthest right route on the east face of Washington Column and starts about 250 feet to the right of Bad Wall. See photo-topo for location. Note that Bad Wall is drawn and labeled incorrectly on page 196 of the 2014 Putnam-Sloan big wall guidebook. Tora Bora stays left of History of the Future.
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