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Routes in Washington Column

Astroman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Direct Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Electric Ladyland 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+
Jo Jo T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mideast Crisis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
Power Failure T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Re-Animator, The 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+
Skull Queen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Southern Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A1-2
Ten Days After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+
Type: Trad, Aid, 1100 ft, 13 pitches, Grade V
FA: John Barbella & Eric Brand, February 1987
Page Views: 2,253 total, 23/month
Shared By: neil chelton on Dec 7, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is a great route with some fun exposure. It's a lesser traveled route on the column, good training for more moderate El Cap routes or as an intro to nailing. The line follows large, steep and clean features for the first half; the second half has smaller features and more rivets before joining the Prow at Tapir Terrace. All placements on the wild circle-head traverse were fixed as of Sept09. Although other fixed pieces ripped on me. We placed only a few pins, this route could easily go clean for those with sufficient aid-trickery experience.

Most belays are bolted. Have fun!

Protection

Take all the toys described in the SuperTopo guidebook, with an emphasis on small offset cams/ nuts. It's unlikely that you will need any heads/ circle heads but bring them in case fixed gear is missing.

Photos

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Nick Zmyewski
Newark, Delaware
 
Nick Zmyewski   Newark, Delaware
 
Just went up this. All of the anchors seem good. Most are two or three bolts. The traverse pitch has one head missing, I cleaned out the head and was able to pass it with a micro beak placed horizontally. Everything else went fine without having to place any heads. Definitely don't need any cams larger than a #3. We only hammered four times and they were all beaks, possibly could have been hand placed. Jul 31, 2016
walmongr
Gilbert AZ
walmongr   Gilbert AZ
How are the anchors on this Route? Headed up in June to do this route. Does it need any work. would be willing to take a drill and do some community service. May 10, 2016
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
Pitch 1 has a short section of mandatory 5.9 free climbing (after the bolt) that feels stout when it's covered in ants and you're self-belayed. Pitch 2 is also dripping wet in the spring and I had to pull like 40lbs of grass and vegetation out of the crack. If you're soloing, then link pitch 6 (the traverse) with pitch 7. You might need a 70m to do this, but it makes cleaning the traverse on rappel super easy.

Bring a couple small beaks and a sawed-off KB. Also bring a handful of heads and something to clean deadheads. You don't need anything bigger than a #3 Camalot. Apr 22, 2016
FA: John Barbella, Eric Brand, 2/1987 Mar 7, 2012