Type: Aid, 1200 ft, 11 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Kohl & Shipley, 1990
Page Views: 1,217 total · 16/month
Shared By: V.X. on Apr 3, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

A great thin aid route established by two of Yosemite's finest climbers. Looking up at the climb from below it is hard to imagine how little drilling took place during the first ascent. The line looks improbable at best and blank at worst - but its all there. The route ascends a series of barely visible copperhead and hook features on the very edge of the Column's south facing prow. The hooking sections, especially, require a calm state of mind and a good eye.

The route has been done in a day but is also a good clean haul for those that want to spend a bit more time on it, you'll have the route to yourself, the approach is minimal. Depending on your pace, two to three nights on the wall should be enough plus approach/descent. Expect the long pitches to take more time than anticipated, even the rivet ladders. It seems that the FAists top-stepped every move.

If climbing the route in a push, the opening block can be dispatched quickly. All the hard hook sections in the middle of the route get climbed during the day. From "Iron Curtain" up is no problem in the dark, even though some of the machineheads are hard to spot.

Overall, this route is very quality. More people interested in difficult aid should take a closer look at this route.

First One Day Ascent: MacNamara, Schmitz 11:56 (speedclimb.com)

Protection

Basic pin rack
Extra Peckers
Many copperheads, all types
Double set hooks, plus modified
Double cam hooks
2-3ea aliens/tcus
2ea offset cams
2ea #.5 Camalot - #4 Camalot
1ea #5 Camalot - #6 Camalot
Stopper and Microstopper assortment, including offset
Many keyhole and wire rivet hangers
Screamers, as many as possible

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