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Routes in I. Washington Column
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Afroman T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3+ |
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Astroman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Direct Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Electric Ladyland 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ |
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Jo Jo T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mideast Crisis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2 |
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Nowhere Man T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pitch to Nowhere T A3 |
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Power Failure T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Prow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 |
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Re-Animator, The 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ |
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Skull Queen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 |
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South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 |
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Southern Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 |
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Ten Days After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3 |
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| Type: | Aid, 1200 ft (364 m), 11 pitches, Grade VI |
| FA: | Kohl & Shipley, 1990 |
| Page Views: | 2,644 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | V.X. on Apr 3, 2013 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
A great thin aid route established by two of Yosemite's finest climbers. Looking up at the climb from below it is hard to imagine how little drilling took place during the first ascent. The line looks improbable at best and blank at worst - but its all there. The route ascends a series of barely visible copperhead and hook features on the very edge of the Column's south facing prow. The hooking sections, especially, require a calm state of mind and a good eye.
The route has been done in a day but is also a good clean haul for those that want to spend a bit more time on it, you'll have the route to yourself, the approach is minimal. Depending on your pace, two to three nights on the wall should be enough plus approach/descent. Expect the long pitches to take more time than anticipated, even the rivet ladders. It seems that the FAists top-stepped every move.
If climbing the route in a push, the opening block can be dispatched quickly. All the hard hook sections in the middle of the route get climbed during the day. From "Iron Curtain" up is no problem in the dark, even though some of the machineheads are hard to spot.
Overall, this route is very quality. More people interested in difficult aid should take a closer look at this route.
First One Day Ascent: MacNamara, Schmitz 11:56 (speedclimb.com)
The route has been done in a day but is also a good clean haul for those that want to spend a bit more time on it, you'll have the route to yourself, the approach is minimal. Depending on your pace, two to three nights on the wall should be enough plus approach/descent. Expect the long pitches to take more time than anticipated, even the rivet ladders. It seems that the FAists top-stepped every move.
If climbing the route in a push, the opening block can be dispatched quickly. All the hard hook sections in the middle of the route get climbed during the day. From "Iron Curtain" up is no problem in the dark, even though some of the machineheads are hard to spot.
Overall, this route is very quality. More people interested in difficult aid should take a closer look at this route.
First One Day Ascent: MacNamara, Schmitz 11:56 (speedclimb.com)
Protection
Basic pin rack
Extra Peckers
Many copperheads, all types
Double set hooks, plus modified
Double cam hooks
2-3ea aliens/tcus
2ea offset cams
2ea #.5 Camalot - #4 Camalot
1ea #5 Camalot - #6 Camalot
Stopper and Microstopper assortment, including offset
Many keyhole and wire rivet hangers
Screamers, as many as possible
Extra Peckers
Many copperheads, all types
Double set hooks, plus modified
Double cam hooks
2-3ea aliens/tcus
2ea offset cams
2ea #.5 Camalot - #4 Camalot
1ea #5 Camalot - #6 Camalot
Stopper and Microstopper assortment, including offset
Many keyhole and wire rivet hangers
Screamers, as many as possible
Photos
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