Type: Trad, Aid, 1200 ft, 12 pitches, Grade V
FA: Royal Robbins and Glen Denny, June 1969
Page Views: 22,073 total · 142/month
Shared By: Zac Cromwell on Jan 23, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Classic Big Wall. Great for someone getting ready to try something on El Cap. The Route has some great exposure and will test anyone new to walls. The bolt ladders are reachy and there are some sections that you need to get high up in your aiders if your not tall. There are some sections that you need hooks but the hook moves are really bomber. Pitch 6 has a section of hooks and heads with good pro in between. The hauling on the route is good till you get to pitch 10. At pitch 10 watch the haul bag eating flake cause it will eat your pig then your right into the gully. Pitch 11 is more gully then into a blocky section for more crappy hauling, then the last pitch sucks to haul also. The Super Topo gear list is a bit heavy but offset cams and offset nuts make things a lot more easy. I didn't think pitch 7 was C2 but that may be because I had 2 sets of hybrid aliens and a set of HB offsets. As far as Bivy goes, there are no good natural ledges so you are on your portaledge the whole way up. Oh and bring a small beak to get past heads with broken cables, or look around for bat holes, they are hiding.

Location

Washington's Column

Protection

My Gear list would be

Cams
1 each .4
2 each .5 to 3.5
1 each hybrid aliens (double green/yellow)

Nuts
1 set nuts
1 set offset nuts
1 set micro nuts
1 set micro offset nuts

Hooks
1 cliffhanger
1 talon
1 cam hook (I never used it)
1 beak (to get passed dead heads)

You can bring heads if you want but I'm sure you can bypass the bad ones by hooking.

All the bolts are super bomber so leave the drill on the ground.

Photos