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Routes in Washington Column

Astroman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Direct Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Electric Ladyland 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+
Jo Jo T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mideast Crisis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
Power Failure T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Re-Animator, The 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+
Skull Queen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Southern Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A1-2
Ten Days After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+
Type: Trad, Aid, 1200 ft, 12 pitches, Grade V
FA: Royal Robbins and Glen Denny, June 1969
Page Views: 16,431 total, 125/month
Shared By: Caz cromwell on Jan 23, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Classic Big Wall. Great for someone getting ready to try something on El Cap. The Route has some great exposure and will test anyone new to walls. The bolt ladders are reachy and there are some sections that you need to get high up in your aiders if your not tall. There are some sections that you need hooks but the hook moves are really bomber. Pitch 6 has a section of hooks and heads with good pro in between. The hauling on the route is good till you get to pitch 10. At pitch 10 watch the haul bag eating flake cause it will eat your pig then your right into the gully. Pitch 11 is more gully then into a blocky section for more crappy hauling, then the last pitch sucks to haul also. The Super Topo gear list is a bit heavy but offset cams and offset nuts make things a lot more easy. I didn't think pitch 7 was C2 but that may be because I had 2 sets of hybrid aliens and a set of HB offsets. As far as Bivy goes, there are no god natural ledges so your on you portaledge the whole way up. Oh and bring a small beak to get past heads with broken cables, or look around for bat holes.

Location

Washington's Column

Protection

My Gear list would be

Cams
1 each .4
2 each .5 to 3.5
1 each hybrid aliens (double green/yellow)

Nuts
1 set nuts
1 set offset nuts
1 set micro nuts
1 set micro offset nuts

Hooks
1 cliffhanger
1 talon
1 cam hook (I never used it)
1 beak (to get passed dead heads)

You can bring heads if you want but I'm sure you can bypass the bad ones by hooking.

All the bolts are super bomber so leave the drill on the ground.
Lucas
Asheville, NC
Lucas   Asheville, NC
youtu.be/vE08uj5ryvU Sep 23, 2017
amockalypsenow
San Diego
amockalypsenow   San Diego
As of sep 10th 2017, there was 4 gallons of water at the base.

You need a hook to send p4, about 10 feet before chains.

Also, I got a dmm #6 offset brassie stuck on pitch 4. Tried super hard to get it out- if anybody can remove her I'd be stoked to pay to post it back to me. Sep 12, 2017
Rude Boy
San Francisco, CA
 
Rude Boy   San Francisco, CA
 
Didn't seem to need many stoppers on this thing. Used RP's a couple times though. Between the two of us I think we each did two hook moves on cliffhangers. No need for beaks. All the fixed heads were bomber. Jun 13, 2016
Aaron McDonald and I did the route this past weekend and it was pretty great vertical camping. We took our time and enjoyed the experience. I do not recommend linking the Strange Dihedral with the next pitch, as it suggests in the newest topo, because of severe rope drag. Even though the aid is not so tricky (though Aaron led the crux on pitch 2-3), it is still a demanding wall due to its steep and exposed nature. Each time you clip a bolt try to imagine Royal Robbins topstepping to hammer the drill, its pretty humbling. Forceful winds added to the feeling that Mother Nature holds the master card and respect is necessary. For us that meant bringing full storm equipment. After doing the North Dome Gully descent I think both of us wish we would have rapped the South Face, as NDG was just too punishingly arduous and dangerous with our haul bags, even doing it in daylight and not for the first time. We thought having drank our water our bags would be lighter, but they felt just as heavy as when we started.

Hindsight Gear List.

Nuts- a sampling of regular offsets and brass offsets, maybe 6-8 total
Single set of offset cams
One Metolius 00
two Metolius 0
Triple cams from Metolius # 1 (blue) to .5 Camelot (purple)
Double cams Camelot #.75 (green) to #3 (blue)
One new Camelot #4
One Chuinard hook, two cam hooks. May 4, 2016
Finished The Prow two days ago. We had it to ourselves. Not a soul on the column except for the South Face. Great climb. We used one tomahawk (love, love, love) one medium beak twice, and one cliffhanger. We did not place any micro nuts. Cam hooks and hybrids were key. Aluminum May 30, 2014
Did it solo over 3 days around April 13th.

- Most of the heads are ok. A couple are in pretty bad shape, but I would say even if they pop you can get around it by being inventive.
- On Pitch 1, just after the initial cracks, there are a couple of 5.6 moves that I did free (to join the second crack under the small roof). DON't take the blocks to the left when freeing that section, they are super loose. I almost pulled a fridge size block out. (it moved then stopped).
- At the end of pitch 9 (The one above Tapir), just before the belay there is also a big lose block on the right. It also moved when I loaded my cam on it. Try to avoid it.
- Pitch 10 is pretty long and wandering. What I did to avoid the haulbag eating flake: I climbed all the pitch at once. Then I build a middle hauling anchor just before the ledge on the middle of the pitch (left of the eating flake). I hauled from there then I hauled a second time from the top. This avoid quite nicely the eating flake.
-To start pitch 11, Don't go directly left!! This chimney is not part of the climb, from the amound of slings on the tree on top, seems a lot of people did that mistake. To haul pitch 11, put the haul bag on the slab on the right.
- For hauling pitch 12, setup a far hauling system with the rope fixed on the highest tree, nearby the bivy site.

All in all a beautiful climb. Most difficult move for me was a super weird cam hooking move on top of pitch 6 just before the bolt before the anchor. (I guess a head popped there). May 7, 2014
Ranger Matt
Yosemite NP
Ranger Matt   Yosemite NP
We climbed this in a LONG day after the smoke cleared. There was ash falling from the sky on Sunday. This was 9/2/13.
No hammer needed, all necessary pins and heads look in good shape. Kudos to ranger Ben Doyle for cleaning the broken pins from pitch two last summer, more aesthetic now.
Bring two Metolius blue/yellow offsets, sell your spare tire if you need to, but bring two of these MVPs. W brought free shoes, but didn't need them. Sep 4, 2013
Ian McEleney
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.8 C2
Ian McEleney   Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.8 C2
Just climbed this a few days ago. There was a dead head on pitch 5. We bypassed this by hooking it with a small Tomahawk. My partner (who is new to walls and had never used a Tomahawk for anything) found this to be pretty straightforward. A short cheater stick would also get you past this easily. May 19, 2012
@ Greg . . .

Much agreed on the cleaning, did the route last may and noticed the absurd amount of fixed gear on the route. I remember that manky head and thinking if the cable blew anyone without direct gear would be %$#@ed.

Feb 8, 2012
J. Thompson
denver, co
 
J. Thompson   denver, co
 
Climbed this route about 8 years ago. I climbed it again just the other day. The number of fixed pins...especially on pitch 2...has increased significantly. Which begs the question, Why are people nailing on a route that has gone clean VERY easily for over 10 years?
Weird. Sep 24, 2008
Great Wall. My first and I lead and hauled every pitch. The "haul bag eating flake" is just that. There are a ton of bat hook holes that I never used once. The only hook I used was my sky hook. Some of the heads look like the cables might go soon but bring a beak to bypass that. All in all a great route and super straight forward. Apr 22, 2008
Sirius
Oakland, CA
Sirius   Oakland, CA
FA June 1969, Royal Robbins and Glen Denny. Robbins and Mike Covington had started the route but bailed after 300 feet.

See Robbins' account of the FA here, scanned form Summit Magazine, July/August 1970:

supertopo.com/climbing/thre…

Robbins took heat after the FA for the 38 bolts placed. Quoting TM Herbert from McNamara/Roper's Supertopo Bigwalls book: "Robbins, Robbins, not you, not you, man. Hell, you'll set a bad example. Pretty soon we'll have guys bolting up blank walls all over the valley." Robbins' response: "But man, it's all a question of the climb being worth it. Worth the number of bolts. Look at the line, man, look at the line."
(The Supertopo Bigwalls book is full of good history, and worth picking up on that merit alone; the topos ain't bad either;). Feb 18, 2008
Jon Richard
St. Louis, Missouri
 
Jon Richard   St. Louis, Missouri
 
Classic Big Wall Route. The route was first ascended by Royal Robbins. It offers a great introduction to moderate clean aid. Super steep and super fun. This route is more exposed than the South Face.

[Bring a] standard Free Rack. Bring some heads and a hammer in case the fixed heads blow. Jan 24, 2007