Type: | Trad, Aid, 1200 ft (364 m), 12 pitches, Grade V |
FA: | Royal Robbins and Glen Denny, June 1969 |
Page Views: | 33,496 total · 152/month |
Shared By: | Zac Cromwell on Jan 23, 2007 · Updates |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
A classic big wall. Great for someone getting ready to try something on El Cap. The route has some great exposure and will test anyone new to walls. The bolt ladders are reachy and there are some sections that you need to get high up in your aiders if you're not tall. There are some sections that you need hooks, but the hook moves are really bomber. Pitch 6 has a section of hooks and heads with good pro in between. The hauling on the route is good until you get to pitch 10. At pitch 10 watch the haul bag eating flake cause it will eat your pig then your right into the gully. Pitch 11 is more gully then into a blocky section for more crappy hauling. The last pitch sucks to haul also. The Super Topo gear list is a bit heavy, but offset cams and offset nuts make things a lot easier. I didn't think pitch 7 was C2, but that may be because I had 2 sets of hybrid aliens and a set of HB offsets. As far as bivy goes, there are no good natural ledges so you are on your portaledge the whole way up. Oh, and bring a small beak to get past heads with broken cables, or look around for bat holes, they are hiding.
Protection
Cams
1 each .4
2 each .5 to 3.5
1 each hybrid aliens (double green/yellow)
Nuts
1 set nuts
1 set offset nuts
1 set micro nuts
1 set micro offset nuts
Hooks
1 cliffhanger
1 talon
1 cam hook (I never used it)
1 beak (to get passed dead heads)
You can bring heads if you want but I'm sure you can bypass the bad ones by hooking.
All the bolts are super bomber so leave the drill on the ground.
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