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Routes in Washington Column

Astroman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Direct Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Electric Ladyland 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+
Jo Jo T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mideast Crisis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
Power Failure T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Re-Animator, The 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+
Skull Queen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Southern Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A1-2
Ten Days After T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C3
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: Ray Jardine, Linda McGinnis, Mark Vallance, 10/1975
Page Views: 1,648 total · 12/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Jul 10, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

As a whole the route is a total pile but the crux (second) pitch is quite good and burly.

P1. Do a bouldery move up the left side of the mini amphitheater to some interesting moves around a hollow block to an ant-infested tree. (5.8+)

P2. The Business...Bearhug up a big inset flake to the base of the open bombay corner/roof. A sling around the flake plus big cams is your pro (If you only bring up to one #4 old-style Camalot (3-1/2" piece as the book recommends) like I did, its kinda scary but more like the F.A.)...Do some height-dependent stem/chimney/OW moves up the corner and pull a crazy stack/leg jam side-switch move over the roof (wild)...Once above the roof its 10- cruiser right side in OW or lieback/stem to another bulge. Continue past the crack which is narrowing and gets dirty and grassy. (11-, 120' 2-bolt anchor)

  • If you want to get a buzz-kill, keep going or better yet rap off and do better pitches somewhere else.

P3. If you're stubborn and want to finish... Wedge/crawl through another ant-infested big bush and run-it-out up a big dirty corner with many loose (some teetering) blocks, past one pin, to another ledge with a tree. (5.9- X)

P4. Actually an interesting slab/crack past a couple old pins and OK gear. Kinda scaly/dirty, though...Imagine that! (10 R)

Last pitch (or two)...Long upward and left traversing pitch all the way to lunch ledge area.

Descend the not-so-pleasant brush-wracked gully to the base, below your packs

Location [Suggest Change]

Fairly far to the left of where the standard trail meets the cliff. Crux pitch is east facing.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard rack of wired nuts and .5" cam to #4 Camalot plus 1 or 2 #5 and #6 Friends. 70M rope if rapping after crux pitch (highly recommended).

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FA: Ray Jardine, Linda McGinnis, Mark Vallance, 10/1975 Mar 7, 2012

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