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Routes in Washington Column

Astroman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Direct Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Electric Ladyland 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+
Jo Jo T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mideast Crisis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
Power Failure T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Re-Animator, The 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+
Skull Queen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Southern Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A1-2
Ten Days After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+
Type: Trad, Aid, 800 ft, 8 pitches, Grade II
FA: Francis Ross, Rich Albushkat 1992
Page Views: 2,576 total, 19/month
Shared By: Adam on Dec 23, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This route heads left from Dinner Ledge. It's a bolt line that starts on a little pedestal with one bat hook move and a few funky hooks up higher. That's the 4th pitch (which we made a long one). The next pitch is funky. You head up and get on the S. Face route for about 14' then you swing left to a seam, then up and left again. I know that this has been done C2-3 (maybe free?), but back when we did it we used pins. One fixed head on this pitch. Above you follow cracks and corners up parallel to the S. Face route to the rim. Pitch 7 has another swing on it I killed my self with rope drag, so use long runners. pitch 8 has one hard section, then it's not so bad to the rim for 2 more pitches. It took me 2 tries to get up this route, great climbing.

If you're a fast team and want to pass other teams off Dinner Ledge, the first 2 pitches of Southern Man will get you to the top of the 6th pitch on the S. Face route.

Location

Head up the first 3 pitches of S. Face, then go left. Can't miss the start. Getting down: Walk the death slabs.

Protection

Aid rack. We used thin pins but with all the new toys you can do it clean. I recall trad belays with 2 bolted, but could be wrong about that. Some fixed heads.

Photos

I felt the trickiest part was the pendulum off the South Face route. It was just a little tricky to get established back on the line after the pendulum.

This route is well worth the effort! Some great opportunities to work off of your top step on this line. May 3, 2010
Jordan Ramey
Calgary, Alberta
Jordan Ramey   Calgary, Alberta
Grade II? Now that's optimistic! Feb 20, 2009
Greg DeMatteo
W. Lebanon, NH
Greg DeMatteo   W. Lebanon, NH
I remember there being some surprisingly tricky spots for the grade, and the natural anchors add an interesting element. Mar 16, 2008
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
Once on Southern Man proper, the belays are indeed all natural with the exception of 4 and 7. Pitch 8 has one bolt to supplement the gear.

Pitch 4 and 5 can be linked with a 60 meter rope if belaying from from the pedestal above Dinner Ledge. From a little above pitch 9, there is a rappel from a tree that can be used to get onto the South Face route if retreat is necessary or you just don't want to go to the top. There are a few crucial fixed heads. A hammer, some heads and a few thin pins are recommended. Apr 1, 2007