Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches
GPS: 32.45909, -110.7854
FA: John Steiger, Ray Ringle 1978
Page Views: 173 total · 8/month
Shared By: Jon.R on May 20, 2024
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

A surprisingly good and varied route with significant sections of crack climbing (for Mt Lemmon) and plush belay ledges. Steiger referred to the climb as contrived but I found it to be an obvious line up mostly solid rock with occasionally small but great protection on any climbing 5.9 or harder. Route moves into the sun mid-morning.

Topo: http://www.climbaz.com/sabino_canyon/graphics/page186.jpg

Pitch lengths are approximate. All belays on gear.

P1 | 5.8 | ~60': Optional pitch, listed as 5.8 layback. Can be skipped by walking around to the right.

P2 | 5.10 | ~140'? : $$$ Chimney and stem up behind the massive flake system. Sections of finger crack with cruxy roof/bulges lead you up to a comfortable ledge (~140'). OR continue up and left 50ish feet of low fifth and belay in the SHADE! at a large tree.

!!! At the first bulge ~60ish feet up is a hollow sounding microwave size block. My partner couldn't rip it off but thought it could go with a crowbar. Recommend for the leader to avoid.

P3 | 5.8 | 115' : From the large tree, head up the hand/finger crack to a large ledge.

P4| 5.8 | ~150'?: From the ledge with small trees/bushes on either side, head up the center at 5.8 in a system right of the final pitch of Odyssey (which is in view, and an option to finish on). In a haste to get out of the sun, we accidentally finished on Penelope's Tapestry (head up and rightish to a modern bolt at ~40'). I haven't done the climbing between the two routes but the climbing on PT was significantly more fun than the last pitch of Odyssey. There's a short stretch of climbing in the 5.7/8 range on PT that you probably wouldn't want to fall on.

Location Suggest change

West face of Poseidon. The route starts below the massive (30+ ft) Cyclops Flake located on the third class ledge system.

Protection Suggest change

2x from #00-#1, 1x #2-3, RPs to large stoppers

Photos

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