White Punks
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 32.45909, -110.7854 |
| FA: | John Steiger, Ray Ringle 1978 |
| Page Views: | 173 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Jon.R on May 20, 2024 |
| Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
A surprisingly good and varied route with significant sections of crack climbing (for Mt Lemmon) and plush belay ledges. Steiger referred to the climb as contrived but I found it to be an obvious line up mostly solid rock with occasionally small but great protection on any climbing 5.9 or harder. Route moves into the sun mid-morning.
Topo: http://www.climbaz.com/sabino_canyon/graphics/page186.jpg
Pitch lengths are approximate. All belays on gear.
P1 | 5.8 | ~60': Optional pitch, listed as 5.8 layback. Can be skipped by walking around to the right.
P2 | 5.10 | ~140'? : $$$ Chimney and stem up behind the massive flake system. Sections of finger crack with cruxy roof/bulges lead you up to a comfortable ledge (~140'). OR continue up and left 50ish feet of low fifth and belay in the SHADE! at a large tree.
!!! At the first bulge ~60ish feet up is a hollow sounding microwave size block. My partner couldn't rip it off but thought it could go with a crowbar. Recommend for the leader to avoid.
P3 | 5.8 | 115' : From the large tree, head up the hand/finger crack to a large ledge.
P4| 5.8 | ~150'?: From the ledge with small trees/bushes on either side, head up the center at 5.8 in a system right of the final pitch of Odyssey (which is in view, and an option to finish on). In a haste to get out of the sun, we accidentally finished on Penelope's Tapestry (head up and rightish to a modern bolt at ~40'). I haven't done the climbing between the two routes but the climbing on PT was significantly more fun than the last pitch of Odyssey. There's a short stretch of climbing in the 5.7/8 range on PT that you probably wouldn't want to fall on.



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