Every Trick in the Book
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | John Steiger, Jim Waugh 1983 |
Page Views: | 963 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | adrian montaño on Jun 28, 2018 |
Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Both Steiger's & EFR's guide recommend this as it's own one pitch route. It's quite unique, & will have you remembering the route's name every 5 feet or so.
Listed as a variation start to "Something Unsaid," this interesting pitch is worth doing once if you're into long approaches & offers an alternative to regaining the ledge system that bisects the Sea Gods if you'd rather not solo the unprotectable 5.8 to get up to the ledge where Heat Wave, Something Unsaid, or Om start. Continuous & well-protected for the most part, smooth laybacks and delicate footwork take quite a tilted path. You traverse more than you gain height above the gully. Pulling over the lip is a fun, committing & different finish to an otherwise continuous route. You'll want to be followed to clean.
(edit: I belayed from the tree but looking at that thing post-fire... plan to build an anchor elsewhere)
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