Type: Trad, 130 ft (39 m)
GPS: 32.45909, -110.7854
FA: Adrian Montaño, Isabella Johnson - Nov '23
Page Views: 331 total · 14/month
Shared By: adrian montaño on Nov 13, 2023
Admins: adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

300 feet off the ground, a shield of bomber white granite just shy of the summit hosts a laser finger-to-tips splitter visible from the ground. 

Encountered this crack in 2018, covered in lichen, with no routes leading to it. Jared Guglielmo and I discussed various options for potential lines on undeveloped sections of Poseidon and had both checked out this crack but were unsure of the line to get to it. It seemed too contrived to get to from Ley Line.

After climbing Treebeard and familiarizing myself with the steep upper sections of Poseidon's North Face, it made the most sense to equip it as an alternate finish to Treebeard. It can also be carefully rapped into from the summit via Ley Line/Snow Arch's final two bolt anchor & directionals.

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From the Treebeard ledge, follow two bolts out right through easy/ledgy terrain to a spicy mantle. An optional slung jug & reachy #00 cam placement protect the easy but heady moves out right off the ledge to clip bolt 3. From here, gradually steepening terrain and wildly varied panels of granite bring you through quality 5.11 to a techy crux with a couple of options.

This deposits you into a section of steep jug hauling through tremendous exposure until arriving at a stance below the crack at the last bolt. Really fun moves here to gain the crack & a wild no-hands kneebar at the mini roof beneath the splitter. Decipher how to pull over this bulge & into the splitter & tiptoe your way up the exposed headwall through a quality finger-to-tips crack in an absolutely wild position. 

Two-bolt anchor above the shield.

 

Descent: From here you can lower to clean (stay clipped into the other line or you will be stuck out in space) Clip into bolt 5 to redirect & reach the belay ledge. Or bring a tagline. 

Rap down & left to Heat Wave ledge, towards Charybdis anchors, then again to the ground.

If you want to summit, belay your follower up & climb one last short pitch traversing right across a lichen ledge to join the final section of Ley Line/Snow Arch (you'll need a couple of hand-sized pieces).

Location Suggest change

Starts off the Treebeard ledge, 2/3 of the way up the North Face

Protection Suggest change

9 bolts

000 - .5 

RP’s or ballnuts

80m rope

Photos

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