Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jim Waugh '85
Page Views: 669 total · 77/month
Shared By: Adrian Montano on Jul 2, 2018
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

Despite being a single pitch on Poseidon's massive North face, this slightly overhanging seam is described as “perhaps the finest twelve along the highway” in John Steiger’s guide. It was also featured in Climbing Magazine’s 1987 piece, Hard Rock on the Lemmon.

Regain the main ledge and belay by small tree.

Start your adventure up a green lichen covered flake that leads to an dark stained, left leaning ramp. Follow the thin seam trending up & left. At an obvious point before the terrain steepens, “Something Unsaid” branches right through a series of under clings leaving the ramp.

Ignore any whispers of hesitation in the air beneath your feet, as you come up under the roof. Pull through with commitment, good footwork, & a little burl. Stay poised as the seam you’ve been following dies out for some final business. These moves are protected by an old pin placed by the first ascent party on rappel.
A forgiving top out left to the ledge below Snow Arch’s upper pitches marks the end of this adventurous old school route.
(Edit: As of Oct. 2018 the pin has been replaced with a bolt.)

(Edit: The old bolted anchor has been upgraded from USE taper bolts, thanks Andy Bennett)
Guidebooks say most rap down from the bolts 15 feet to the left.

**a 70m just reaches the gully boulders. Knot the ends of your rope.**

Or continue into the 2nd pitch of 'Treebeard' or 'Snow Arch (and the seven swifts)'

Location

North face
straight ahead when approaching around Aegir, can't miss it
Right of starts to Treebeard.
Either solo up to the ledge (5.8) or climb Every Trick in the book (5.11-) to get to the belay.

Protection

Gear from micros to #2 Camalot, extra small & finger size cams/nuts.
Plenty of extendable runners.
An old pin still protects the crux (replaced with bolt Oct. 2018)
A 70m just reaches the gully boulders if you rap from ledge, knot the ends of your rope.

Photos

Adrian Montano
Tucson, AZ
  5.12-
Adrian Montano   Tucson, AZ
  5.12-
Protecting and pulling the roof on this climb felt reminiscent of Rapture of the Steep’s, just a bit more cruxy. A fall you’d probably rather not take, & a sneaky placement before starting the sequence helps. In this case, I placed a Red C3. The old grey stopper stuck below this may have been the FA's last piece before the roof; awesome to think of Jim Waugh putting this up in the 80's. He told me afterwards that like other Reef routes, this was a 'keep your act together climb, where you protect where you can and not when you want to." Because of the route’s traversing nature and lack of an anchor, each attempt I made was cleaned on follow, never tried lowering back to the ledge. I don't think the pin scar will yield a placement after it pulls. Jul 2, 2018