Deep End

This route has an ambiguous history, as I was unable to track anyone down with knowledge of this line since first encountering it in 2018. I initially quested up there searching for an adventure (got what I asked for) and I ended up stumbling upon an old hex, two original RP stoppers, and a handful of pitons in a seam that led to a blank looking section of face climbing before another pin in a seam above this face.

It is unclear whether these were placed on rappel while someone rapped the wall, or if they were left behind from a hard/scary aid ascent. Some carabiners and old slings were left on some pins. Either way, after a few years of trying to track down anyone familiar with this route, & finally feeling like I can efficiently workout a free variation, in 2021 I decided to replace a few pins with bolts and put effort into freeing the route. 

Pitch 1 | 5.12 ** 100 feet: Two starts exist, a mostly bolted but trivial ledgy romp up 5.9ish terrain, or a 5.10 gear start in the flake just to the right i.e. P1 of Treebeard (Just left of Charybdis) Both begin with casual climbing for about 40 feet & meet up after a large runout on easy terrain to the Grungy Garden Ledge, where a bolt deposits you at the base of the neon block/corner). Above this ledge, the real Red Wall climbing begins. Committing moves through adventurous blocks brings you to a leftward traverse protected by two bolts. The difficulty of this pitch gradually ramps up with the hardest moves at the very end of the pitch, guarding the belay notch. Once at the belay, place a .3 cam in the crack to your right to mitigate the rope shredding swing if your follower blows the last dynamic crux moves. **I would not attempt to clean this pitch without being followed. Due to the traverse to the V-notch belay, lowering from the anchor to clean may shred your rope.**

Rack: 7 bolts, single rack to #3 C4, micro nuts helpful. Extra small to finger-sized pieces helpful if doing the gear start to the right.

Pitch 2 | 5.13- *** 110 feet: The Boomerang Pitch. From the V-notch belay, carefully start up the less-than-optimal rock heading towards the intimidating flake system looming overhead. Though the climbing is not difficult, the undulating flake does not inspire confidence in the cams shoved behind it. (R?) It took time to place gear in thoughtful spots. The system pinches down to fingers after pulling around the right side, leading to a small crux protected by a small sideways stopper before getting to the first bolt & a forgiving jug rest. From here, follow the seam trending up & right through sparsely bolted terrain. These bolts replaced the pins that were pulled. A horizontal red Metolius or equiv. tricam can be placed in an obvious pocket to mitigate the runout between bolts 2 & 3. Don’t expect to clip up bolts here. Big whips possible & likely. 

The main crux traverse is thin and technical, demanding delicate footwork & a dash of creativity to powerfully gain a small corner leading to a good rest at a stance. On more bolt above you before you head left for a thin seam with a piton (can be backed up with #000, or ballnut) for one last section of tenuous climbing protected by micro nuts & C3s. (Save a .5 for the horizontal at the end of the seam before mantling left to the anchor to protect the follower) (there is an anchor ~20 feet straight above the last bolt, this is NOT your anchor (anchor for Abstract) and is far right from the rap line)

Rack: 5 bolts, single rack 000-#4, nuts. A second #3 is helpful your first time up the flake above the belay.

Pitch 3 | 5.10 R  * 90 feet: The last pitch starts off with independent climbing up a large detached block before traversing right passing a tree on a ledge to join the last pitch of “Treebeard” (5.11). There is no protection for the traverse though the terrain is easy, and the rock left on the final pitch of Treebeard is less than optimal despite prying off the blocks that would budge. Hollow flakes are easy to climb around, just proceed with caution. Follow the grungy crack trending up and left toward the summit. 

Rack: single rack 00-#4

Descent: Two bolt anchors at each belay. The route can be rapped with 70m rope. Straightforward descent. Or walk off the top to faint trail towards the ridge to regain gully. 

Poseidon North face

Left of Charybdis

Right of Superhighway

000 C3 - #4 C4, ballnuts.

micro- finger sized nuts 

draws, runners

choss goggles