Type: Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches
GPS: 32.45909, -110.7854
FA: Ray Ringle, John Steiger
Page Views: 940 total · 14/month
Shared By: Jon.R on May 30, 2021
Admins: adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

An old school trad route that carves it's way up the north face of Poseidon. Ridiculously exposed and shocking that the climbing isn't any harder. We didn't climb the full route, and there are number of variations (some of which are allegedly dangerous) so refer to SQL III and this topo for better directions. I'm posting this in the hopes that some others chime in to give more info on the pitches we missed out on.

P1 - 40' - (5.8R): Unprotectable ~5.8 crux to 5.0 climbing to gain the heatwave ledge.

P2: I've heard not great things about the rock quality on P2 so we climbed Om's incredible first pitch and a half and belayed 20' above the spike. Probably more enjoyable to stop at the top of P1 of Ley Line on a comfy belay ledge w/ a bolted belay.

P3 - 100' - (5.10 PG13): Assuming you stop on the Ley Line ledge, climb 20' above the giant spike/flake to a small alcove formed by a smaller spike. From here climb almost straight up the obvious left facing corner to about 10' below the large roof. Cruxy traverse directly left to a mediocre stance and gear anchor (0.75-#2, top of P2 of Ley Line). Between the exposure and lichen, the traverse is pretty exciting for both leader and follower, best to be solid at the grade.

P4 - From here we finished on Ley Line. It's pretty hard to imagine that the FA skipped the splitter layback and climbed through the uglier corner to the right, but this what the topo shows. Can someone verify?

P5 - maybe another 5.9 pitch to the top

Location Suggest change

Start on the North side of Poseidon, below the path of least resistance, just above where the gulley gets steep or climb Every Trick in the Book, P1 of Odyssey, walk around climbers right to the 4th class (+?) access.

Protection Suggest change

double from micro to #3, maybe a single #4?

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