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The Barnacle
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.5 from 2
votes
Routes in (c) The Beach
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A Wisdom that is Woe S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Albinestone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Apes and Ballerinas T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Barnacle, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Between the Cheeks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crack in the Cosmic Egg S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dead Reckoning (aka the Terry-Michaels route) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Heaven's Rear-Entry Vehicle, Parked Out Back, Tow Away Zone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mermaid S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Merman T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Normandy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Open Project: Undermedicated S 5.14+ 9a 35 XI 35 E10 7b |
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Perverse Traverse, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ripple S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Soulfinger T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Up'er Zipper T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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When the Levee Breaks S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 130 ft (39 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Chandler D, Michal R, Ryan H |
| Page Views: | 261 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan Hoover on Jul 11, 2023 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
P1 - Start in the cave right of Between the Cheeks. Exit the cave right (straight up is Levee) and you will see an intermediate anchor after a couple more bolts.
P2 - There is a couple ways to go about the 2nd pitch. The arete above the P1 anchor is a closed project!
Option 1: Mega Pitch - use long slings or skip bolts to link the first pitch into the second. Rest up and continue to the right and up through some of the best stone index has to offer.
Option 2: Project P2 without P1 - My favorite option. Set up a fixed line at the anchor and jug up to P2 while the belayer enjoys the good life on the beach ledge. Probably the most fun way to tackle p2 and takes out any rope drag issues.
Option 3: Pitch it out and belay at anchor - Probably the least fun option, but you could do this. You and the belayer would be tight.
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