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Routes in The Beach

A Wisdom that is Woe S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Albinestone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Apes and Ballerinas T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Between the Cheeks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dead Reckoning (aka the Terry-Michaels route) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heaven's rear-entry vehicle, parked out back, tow away zone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Normandy S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Perverse Traverse, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Up'er Zipper T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Terry Lien, Tom Michaels
Page Views: 3,505 total · 57/month
Shared By: Thomas Ramier on Jul 16, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Amazing.
Steep.
Clean and FUN.

P1 is 11b/c

P2 is 11d

Protection

small to #2
#3 optional for P2

Photos

Chris Kalman  
 
Incredibly good climbing, and some of the steepest at Index! Kudos to Tom on the hard work. Jul 24, 2013
braddean Lignoski
Seattle
  5.12a
braddean Lignoski   Seattle
  5.12a
One of the best routes I've ever been on. Steep, varied with wild, unique feautes. Solid rock in one of the best positions around. I don't even mind that Tom stole my bolt hangers to make it happen!

--Brad Jul 30, 2013
Mike Schmitt  
 
Amazing climbing on perfect rock!! For p1, a single set of cams from red C3 to .75 C4 works well (maybe bring 2x .5). I haven't tried p2 yet, but it looks even better than p1... Aug 20, 2013
kerwinl
 
kerwinl  
 
Can this be rappelled from the top of P2 with a 70 back to the beach ledge? Rappelling from the top of P1 got pretty close to the edge and P2 looked even more overhanging. Mar 9, 2015
Kerwinl, go to the beach photos and look at "index steep" photo . That should answer your question . Lol. I think you need two ropes . Mar 9, 2015
kerwinl
 
kerwinl  
 
That photo is very informing, with two ropes would have the length, but might be off the edge. Also hard to tell exactly which route is being rappelled.

I did notice a fixed nut on p2 with a carabiner on it, one may be able to clip into that on rappel and make it back to the p1 anchor, or simply clip the chains and lower back down, using a quickdraw attached to the other side of the rope to avoid swinging out. I will go back and check it out for sure. Mar 10, 2015
Eric Hirst  
 
Start R of a chain anchor (currently the right-most anchor on the Beach) in a short LFC, then angle L to finish on prow. I couldn't do all the moves on P1 (time to train pistol-squats), but thought it was brilliant nonetheless. Jul 13, 2018

More About Dead Reckoning (aka the Terry-Michaels route)

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