Type: Trad, Sport, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: FFA Thomas Ramier, Derek Pearson, Jon Nelson, Bradley Lignoski
Page Views: 3,934 total · 58/month
Shared By: Thomas Ramier on May 16, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Amazing pure splitter crack climbing after the first pitch of flakes and bolts. Generally follows the upper 3 pitches of the Zipper aid line.

P1: Some semi-strenuous laybacking at the start gives way to fun knobs and flakes, finishing up at a small overlap with a hanging belay (chained anchor). About 10c/d.

P2: A crack starts up from the overlap. The first few jams are wide fists, but then the crack becomes thinner, ranging between fingers and hands. Pumpy. The crack continues into a shallow right-facing corner and then meets another overlap with some thin jams. By itself, this is 11a/b. Can be combined with P1 as one long pitch, it is probably 11b.

P3: Follow the same crack line. Climb a steep rib and stem in a short corner. This short pitch is about 10a. Ends at a luscious belay cove.

P4: Take the bolted face on the right to the summit. Has some interesting moves to an amazing lofty summit ledge at the top of the cheeks. about 10a.

Decent

If rappeling from the summit: Two raps straight down(stations added 9/4/16). Note: The first rap is a rope stretcher. If using a 60m rope be very careful. Tie knots!

Alternatively, if using a shorter rope, the descent can be broken into three rappels, stopping first at the top of pitch three.

If rappeling from the top of the second pitch: Two short raps straight down(station added 9/4/16)

Location

Start off the Beach about 25' left of Apes and Ballerinas (aka Stock Options).

Protection

Standard rack to 3" with extra finger and hand sizes.
braddean Lignoski
Seattle
 
braddean Lignoski   Seattle
 
For those with small hands:
Gear tip: If wide fist cracks (#4 BD) are very challenging for you, you might want to carry a #4. It is possible to place TCU's in the back of the wide sections, but if you like the security of pushing a cam when you are off-widthing, consider yourself warned.

If this route were on the lower wall it would be easily as popular as Sloe Children (Which is amazing, don't get me wrong).

Recently cleaned this route. Go do it! You won't be sorry.

(Be careful about the flake low and to the right near the very end of the route... I stood on it and it held, but be ginger... Now I just don't touch it. You can work around it using chicken heads and such)

-b May 29, 2013
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
  5.11b
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
  5.11b
Amazing route. Continuously interesting flake & knob climbing up to a short overlap at the end of P1, then a long straight crack for P2. Some leaders combine the two pitches.

Pitch 2 is mostly thin hand and fingers, but also has some hand jams and a few fist jams at the start. Pumpy crux at the bottom, more of a technical & power crux at the end. The last two pitches are short, but a blast as well. Jun 10, 2013
You can link the first two pitches, or endure the hanging belay at the chains on pitch 1. What may be better would be to climb past the chains on p1, pull the crux OW section, and belay at a good stance above. Jul 24, 2013
We climbed it last Wednesday. That was fun, thanks for the cleaning!

First two pitches were awesome (we found the first one to be a bit more than "semi" strenuous). Third was also fun but a bit dirty (there's a wire brush at the base, maybe that was a hint...). We passed on the fourth because it was wet.

Can rap the route with one 70m rope. Watch out for rope eating cracks when going from p2 anchor to p1 anchor.

Small offset cams are useful for the start of p2, especially if you are inclined to sew it up to avoid falling on your partner at the hanging belay. If you're skipping the belay maybe you don't need them because it'll be an air fall on to a big cam backed up by the chains... Jun 21, 2014
J.Cirillo Cirillo
Seattle, Washington
J.Cirillo Cirillo   Seattle, Washington
Pitches 1 and 4 are completely bolted. May 31, 2015
Doug Hutchinson
Seattle, WA
Doug Hutchinson   Seattle, WA
Be careful rapping from the top of P2 to the top of P1. The plumb line takes you pretty far climber's left of the P1 anchors and out from the wall. The first rapper down should consider placing a few cams for directionals to keep you closer to the wall and the anchor. There may be a plumb line anchor installed in the near future to improve this. Jul 17, 2016
wayne wallace
Seattle
 
wayne wallace   Seattle
 
Did a trip report on this outstanding route, Thanks Doug for contributing to a fantastic day! https://waynewallace.wordpress.com/2016/07/19/my-favorite-index-pitch-uper-zipper/ Jul 18, 2016
Thomas Ramier
  5.11b
Thomas Ramier  
  5.11b
New top anchor added for decent. It is still better to bring the second up by improvising a belay off of the tree. If anyone wishes to replace the webbing with a proper chain anchor please do.



1st station in line from summit about 61m below at a small ledge



Station in line below the top of pitch 2

Sep 6, 2016