Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches
FA: FFA Thomas Ramier, Derek Pearson, Jon Nelson, Bradley Lignoski
Page Views: 5,937 total · 42/month
Shared By: Thomas Ramier on May 16, 2013
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan

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Description Suggest change

Amazing pure splitter crack climbing after the first pitch of flakes and bolts. Generally follows the upper 3 pitches of the Zipper aid line.

P1: Some semi-strenuous laybacking at the start gives way to fun knobs and flakes, finishing up at a small overlap with a hanging belay (chained anchor). About 10c/d.

P2: A crack starts up from the overlap. The first few jams are wide fists, but then the crack becomes thinner, ranging between fingers and hands. Pumpy. The crack continues into a shallow right-facing corner and then meets another overlap with some thin jams. By itself, this is 11a/b. Can be combined with P1 as one long pitch, it is probably 11b.

P3: Follow the same crack line. Climb a steep rib and stem in a short corner. This short pitch is about 10a. Ends at a luscious belay cove.

P4: Take the bolted face on the right to the summit. Has some interesting moves to an amazing lofty summit ledge at the top of the cheeks. about 10a.

Decent

If rappeling from the summit: Two raps straight down(stations added 9/4/16). Note: The first rap is a rope stretcher. If using a 60m rope be very careful. Tie knots!

Alternatively, if using a shorter rope, the descent can be broken into three rappels, stopping first at the top of pitch three.

If rappeling from the top of the second pitch: Two short raps straight down(station added 9/4/16)

Location Suggest change

Start off the Beach about 25' left of Apes and Ballerinas (aka Stock Options).

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack to 3" with extra finger and hand sizes.

Photos

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