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Soulfinger
5.13- YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 4 from 3
votes
Routes in (c) The Beach
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A Wisdom that is Woe S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Albinestone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Apes and Ballerinas T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Barnacle, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Between the Cheeks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crack in the Cosmic Egg S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dead Reckoning (aka the Terry-Michaels route) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Heaven's Rear-Entry Vehicle, Parked Out Back, Tow Away Zone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mermaid S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Merman T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Normandy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Open Project: Undermedicated S 5.14+ 9a 35 XI 35 E10 7b |
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Perverse Traverse, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ripple S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Soulfinger T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Up'er Zipper T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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When the Levee Breaks S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Terry Lien, Tom Michaels (FFA: Michal Rynkiewicz) |
| Page Views: | 1,835 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Michal on May 10, 2019 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
I was lucky enough to get the FFA of this line. Sweet climbing and surprisingly juggy. Wonderful position and features will make anyone smile. Should be done as much as the ltw classics!!!
P1 Start of the Terry-Micheals up to the obvious horizontal that takes you to a short roof crack. Pull a moderate boulder problem v4/5 to get established above the roof then enjoy the cruiser .12- splitter tips to hands. .12b
P2. Climb the crack off the belay up and right to a left facing corner that you layback to a areteish feature, eventually arriving to a finger layback that leads to anchor. Up 20ft is a block that I could not trundle with just a hammer. It's likely solid. .11
I never cleaned the top of p1 and spent very little time cleaning p2. Its climbable but a little grainy due to being so steep. The crux is very clean. This climb is mega and its position is some of the proudest at Index. Make sure to redirect when rappelling p2 to top of p1 or you'll be stuck in space.
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