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Routes in The Beach

A Wisdom that is Woe S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Albinestone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Apes and Ballerinas T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Between the Cheeks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dead Reckoning (aka the Terry-Michaels route) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heaven's rear-entry vehicle, parked out back, tow away zone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Normandy S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Perverse Traverse, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Up'er Zipper T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

The Beach, specifically the wide ledge at the base of the Upper Cheeks, stretches from the Perverse Traverse rightward to the gully next to the Diamond. The white faces of the Upper Cheeks house some of the steepest climbs in the area.

Because of it's lofty position, rock here stays cool in the summer heat when the lower walls are unbearable. Yet the area does not retain cold pockets of air on clear winter days. Sunlight strikes the walls in the morning, leaving the rock in the shade from the early afternoon.

With the adjacent areas of The Black Sea and the Lower Cheeks, this area has a concentration of climbing that rivals in quality and surpasses in scenic beauty any of the more traveled classics of the Lower Wall.

For instance, the 2nd pitch of the Up'er Zipper is as good as steep crack climbing gets in an astounding alpine position. Normandy overhangs 20' and stays completely dry even in a steady rain. As do the top rope-able routes directly below on the Lower Cheeks.

Getting There

A common approach from the left side is via the Perverse Traverse.

As of March 2013, one can just clip into a thick cable and shuffle across to the Beach, completely protected. No rope is needed, and no perversity.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Beach

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
More Classic Climbs in The Beach »

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Photos

When is someone going to free that Soul Finger? Think there has been a rope up there for some time. Aug 2, 2015

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