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Routes in The Beach

A Wisdom that is Woe S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Albinestone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Apes and Ballerinas T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Between the Cheeks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dead Reckoning (aka the Terry-Michaels route) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heaven's rear-entry vehicle, parked out back, tow away zone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Normandy S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Perverse Traverse, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Up'er Zipper T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,029 total, 19/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on Jun 11, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details


At one time this crossing (from the Black Sea to the Beach) was mocked by calling it a 5.5 belly crawl. Now it is a clean 5.2 A0 or 5.8+. Perhaps not yet celebrated, but definitely a lot more fun. Try doing it without grabbing the wire or bolt hangers and see how hard you think it is.


Start in the 'cave' behind the Guardian block, just above Ted, Ted Nugent and Black Planet, and just below the Black Sea route.


Just one piece -- a cable that spans the crossing. Attach a runner or two to your harness and then clip the cable with a locking biner or two. Then slide the biner(s) along as you traverse. When the biner hits an attachment point that holds the cable, just lift the cable up and slide the biner past.

If you want to be more sporting, lead it traditionally, hooking your rope over the half-dozen or so attachment points. Belay at the cable anchors.