Type: Sport, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: Bayard Russell, 2009
Page Views: 1,387 total · 35/month
Shared By: Andy Casler on Apr 19, 2021
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: BOTH the trails and the cliffs are on private property. Please "go lightly" and read the details. DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons in Maine DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

You drove to Maine, but somehow you're climbing on a schist version of New River Gorge. Physical, juggy cruxes on steep rock. Bolts right where you need them. Exciting but safe falls. A perfect rock climb.

Scramble up to get the first two bolts clipped, and then use an undercling to pull into the first crux. Reach a good rest, clip the fixed chain, and then launch into the burly undercling crux with smears for feet. Take in the sit-down rest and the nice view of Shell Pond before launching into the heartbreaker top out. This route is so good!

Location Suggest change

Walk left from where the approach trail first meets the cliff. This climb starts just the the right of two blocks at the base of the wall.

Protection Suggest change

Nine bolts

Photos

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