All Locations > Maine > a. Western Moun… > Shell Pond > High Meadow Wall

Ito’s Eyesore

Name: Ito’s Eyesore
Rating: 2.1

5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British

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Routes in High Meadow Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Asphyxiation S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Bombshell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Borg, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Captain Dinghy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Choker, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Embryonic Journey S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Erosion Control S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Hot Tuna S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Ito’s Eyesore S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Lone Pine S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Pollo Del Mar S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Pondemonium S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Pride and Joy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Righta Rumpus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Sarlacc S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Schlong One S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Schnell S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Science Project S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Senior Project S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Space Inside, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Stranglehold S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Strung Out on Laser Beams S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Tak and Jib S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Thunderhead S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Two Nuts For You S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Void, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	White Meat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Wild Rumpus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

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Type:	Sport, 45 ft (14 m)
GPS:	44.24944, -70.96504
FA:	Bob Parott, Maurey Mckinny. Summer 1995
Page Views:	392 total · 11/month
Shared By:	Ryan DeLena on Oct 11, 2023 · Updates
Admins:	Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall, Chris Duca Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: BOTH the trails and the cliffs are on private property. Please "go lightly" and read the details. Details

The Deer Hill Rd approach is a shorter and more secluded access to the cliffs but has winter closure. The Stone House Rd approach brings you VERY close and obvious to the owners house.
It's surrounded by W.M.N.F but the Shell Pond Crags are located on private property subject to a conservation easement held by Greater Lovell Land Trust. The owners and easement holders of the property have been gracious enough to allow climbing to occur on their land, but access is not guaranteed in the future. If you show up and there are numerous cars in the parking lot consider climbing at other nearby Evan’s Notch locations

Description

For a route with such a remarkably bad reputation, I have to say, I wasn’t expecting to have as much fun as I did. The climbing up there is quite good, then again I’ve munched plenty of lichen in Conway so my standards are low. The movement is exciting, dynamic and juggy. However there are a few detractors, such as sandy holds, and one currently stable, but very dubious looking hold that also happens to be very key.
Stick clip the first bolt and climb jugs that get progressively bigger as you go. Reach up to the aforementioned chunk of choss and clip the second bolt. Big moves between big holds gain you the third bolt. Traverse left as the holds start to thin out. Good footwork is prudent as you climb sloping edges, all while building a nice pump. Gain a small ledge with 2 quick links and thread the chains. Reaching the anchor may be annoying if you’re short.

NOTE- In addition to how "enjoyable" then submitter made this route sound, it has been noted that "A whip above any of the bolts would most likely result in a ground fall " R Hall Admin