5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Sport, 990 ft (300 m), 10 pitches|
|FA:||Ladstätter, Schröcker and Ostermayer (1997)|
|Page Views:||362 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Melanie Trobe on Aug 2, 2020|
|Admins:||Phil Lauffen, Shawn Heath|
You & This Route
Your To-Do List:Add To-Do ·
Your Difficulty Rating:
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
Considerd a classic climb on Röthelstein by many people here. Start the route either directly up a steep face past a few bolts (variation, 5+) or travese left and eventuelly up back into the main line (5-). Pitches 2 to 4 don´t really have discrete anchors, but continue up climbable rock mixed with walking sections. The start of pitch 5 is an obvious steep wall and two variations are possible (left side in 2 pitches at 4 or slightly right in one pitch at 5+). From the start of the 5th pitch you can see the half open tunnel on the 4th pitch of "Schlangengrube".
After the rejoining the main line from the easier variation (traverse back to the right at the end of the variation) or finishing the 5+-pitch continue up a short grassy section to the anchor at the start of pitch 7. Pitch 7 goes up a short, steep and juggy overhang and finishes on easier ground at an anchor next to a tree. Don´t wander too far off to the right or you will end up on the route "Schlangengrube". Pitch 9 is a somewhat exposed slabby traverse (imo best on the route) left off the arete, leading into the last pitch, where again two variations are possible.
Continue along the arete (easy) or stay to the left and climb up a steep crack on jugs (a bit harder). Both pitches finish at a top anchor.
After finishing the route follow a well walked path down to the right. This will eventually hit a forest service road that continues downhill to the right back to "Rote Wand" parking lot.
Park at "Rote Wand" parking lot and follow the logging road that continues to the west from the back of the lot. Follow this road until you see an intersection leading up to a wooden barn. Continue up th road to the right of the barn into the forest (red-white-red marking on tree). You will pass a sign that says "Mixnitz" (this leads down to the left and the town Mixnitz), continue up right and along a fence until you hit a grassy meadow (~30 min total). Continue aross the meadow towards the wall. The route starts at the lowest section of the wall. A short connection splits off the main approach trail on the right towards the wall. Two thick, red bolts are visible on the first pitch.