Type: Sport, 790 ft (239 m), 8 pitches
GPS: 47.3262, 15.38616
FA: P. Pesendorfer and R. Hohensinner (2020)
Page Views: 471 total · 8/month
Shared By: Melanie Trobe on Mar 28, 2021
Admins: Shawn Heath, Melanie Trobe

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Description Suggest change

A relatively new route on Röthelstein with minimal walking connection between pitches as it is often common in this area. The first pitch starts up a gently sloped face into a crack (hanging belay). On the second pitch (crux) this crack steepens and eventually trends right. The crux comes early, but the climbing remains engaging for the whole pitch. Pitches 3-5 are easier, but still contain a good mix of varied climbing. Pitch 6 starts up a funky pocketed slab (easy) into a step over move to a somewhat burly layback dihedral. Pitch 7 contains fun exposed climbing. Bolt spacing is safe, but clipping could be challenging for shorter climbers. Pitch 8 starts with a fun traversing slab to a step over onto an easy arete. This pitch continues up left and rope drag buikds up unti you top out.

Location Suggest change

Park at "Rote Wand" parking lot and follow the logging road that continues to the west from the back of the lot. Follow this road until you see an intersection leading up to a wooden barn. Continue up th road to the right of the barn into the forest (red-white-red marking on tree). You will pass a sign that says "Mixnitz" follow this sign down to another logging road. Continue on this road until you see a cairn on the right side (100 m before the cairn you pass underneath the medow at the top of witch routes including Elfengarten and Schlangengrube start, there is a steep trail connecting up to these climbs). 

Continue on this for about 15 min until the trail leads down a rocky "staircase". The route starts right at the top of the staircase. A bolt and a sling mark the start. If you hit Eldorado (name is spray painted in white on the rock) you have gone too far, head back ~30m.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts and bolted belays

Descent Suggest change

After topping the climb you will see a well walked path leading down climbers right. The trail runs perpenticular along the edge of the cliff and is not marked, but fairly easy to find. Follow this trail stayin on the right it will lead along the bottom of a meadow and then continue further down along the base of the wall. You will hit the base of the wall rigt at the start of "Kaiserschmarren" and "Land des Lächelns". Continuing further you will pass other routs including "Broken Souls", "Elfengarten" and some others. At the end of the wall continue across a grassy meadow (see approach to "Elfengarten") and follow the trail back until you hit a logging road leading to the parking lot. When the logging road forks stay to the left (slightly uphill). The "Rote Wand" parking lot is just a few minutes from here.

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