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Drachenpfeiler

Name: Drachenpfeiler
Rating: 4.0

5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British

Routes in Röthelstein

L › R R › L A › Z

	Alte Südwest-wand (Old Southwest) S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Broken Soul S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Das Letze im Fels S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Die glorreichen 7 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Dr. Reinhold und sein Yeti S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Drachenpfeiler S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Eldorado S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Elfengarten S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Feuerwasser-Einstieg S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Goldader S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Goldmuffel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Graser Bergland Express S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Hotzenplotz S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Kaiserschmarrn S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Land des Lächelns S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Michelangelo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Mosaik S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Muffelkante S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Postlerweg S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Ris(s)kante S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Schlangengrube S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Tigerauge S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	UFO S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Winnetouweg S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	Sport, 1300 ft (394 m), 14 pitches
FA:	B. Zeiler, M. Pilz, 2013
Page Views:	643 total · 12/month
Shared By:	Melanie Trobe on Oct 20, 2019
Admins:	Phil Lauffen, Shawn Heath Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

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Description

One of the longest routes in Grazer Bergland. The first 3 pitches follow easy terrain along a ridge to a flat grassy seaction (here optional bail to "Drachenhöhle" hike on the right). After pitch 3 move the belay 20 m to the right next to a commemorative plaque. Pitch 4 is relatively steep and harder than the previous pitches. The fith pitch sucks (steep grass and loose rock, no protection) and serves to connect the first ridge to the main wall.
Pitches 6 and 7 are easy, but entertaining and lead to the traverse pitch that involves a downclimb to the anchor at the start of the 9th pitch.
This pitch is the crux. The start of pitch is pulling a roof and the rest is vertical to semi-vertical technical face climbing. Many bolts allow this pitch to be climbed A0, 5.9.
The remainder of the pitches to the top are well protected and offer a variety of fun challenges from slab, to crack to roof.

Location

From the parking lot head south for 50 m to the start of the "Drachenhöhle" hike. Follow the signs for about 45 min until you hit a steep rocky gully protected with bolted chain handrails. At the seventh bolt look to the left for the start of the climb. A goldish colored bolt 5 m of the ground leads to a handfull of Sanduhren which may be easier to see from above than from below.

Protection

Bolts, Sanduhren and bolted belays.

Descent

Follow a faint climbers trail to the right towards the summit. Keep walking around the backside of the mountain still following the faint, but distinguishable trail until you hit a fence. Turn to right just before the fence and keep descending passing remnents of wooden ladders and fence parts. The trail will eventually be marked with yellow/green spray paint on trees. Follow this for ~30 min until you reach the "Drachenhöhle" (huge obvious cave). From here follow the well established hiking trail (red-white-red markings) back to the parking lot. Approximately 60 min for the descent.

Or you can aslo decent to the "Rote Wand" parking lot by following a climbers trail marked by white and then yellow spray paint on trees. This will lead you to a meadow with a forest road on the opposite side. Cross the meadow and head to the right on the road back to "Rote Wand" parking lot.