Type: Sport, 1020 ft (309 m), 10 pitches
FA: M. Kulmer & S. Schweiger, 2022
Page Views: 107 total · 7/month
Shared By: Ansel Higgs on Nov 3, 2023
Admins: Phil Lauffen, Shawn Heath

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Description Suggest change

A new route in Grazerbergland that combines a great variety pitches with very little disturbing grassy sections. The first pitch starts up a slab and trends into a dihedral for a few moves, before finishing after a section of easy climbing below the "Klemmblock." The "Klemmblock" is a wedged rock in the pitch 2 crack; climb the dihedral and face and then carefully pull around/onto the block before trending left on easier climbing to the anchor. The next two pitches continue up steep, solid rock with water cut jugs. Pitch 5 and 6 traverse left and up on easy grass and blocks to reach a comfortable belay underneath the crack of pitch 7. Pitch 7 is the first of the two crux pitches and ascends the face just left of the crack using a variety of jamming, splitting, and slabbing techniques. Once at the top, the long and steep looking pitch 8 awaits. This pitch contains continuous face climbing with just the right amount of features to meet the grade. Pitch 9 starts with an easy, leftwards traverse underneath a roof and then continues up past it on mostly vertical climbing. An akward, abrupt right traverse leads to the anchor at the end. The final pitch continues up easy climbing to the top of the wall

Link to topo

Location Suggest change

Park at "Rote Wand" parking lot and follow the logging road that continues to the west from the back of the lot. Follow this road until you see an intersection leading up to a wooden barn. Continue up th road to the right of the barn into the forest (red-white-red marking on tree). You will pass a sign that says "Mixnitz" (this leads down to the left and the town Mixnitz), continue up right and along a fence until you hit a grassy meadow (~30 min total).

From the side of the meadow continue along the trail into the woods on the other side. Continue on this for about 2 min until a climbers trail leads towards the wall. Once you reach the route "Michangelo" ("MIC" visible in paint on the wall), continue up steep gravel to the left for around 50m. The route starts slightly right of a dihedral, an "M" is scratched into the wall at the base.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts and bolted anchors

Photos

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