Type: Sport, 1700 ft (515 m), 13 pitches
FA: R. Weilguny, M. Kaltenegger, 2022
Page Views: 56 total · 6/month
Shared By: Ansel Higgs on Apr 28, 2024
Admins: Phil Lauffen, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


2 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Slightly easier than the neighboring "Drachenpfeiler" this route offers one of the longest, easy climbing experiences in the area. The 13 pitches are all relatively long (uncut 50m rope required) but unfortunately contain a slightly disrupting amount of walking and scrambling.

The first pitch climbs up loose rock for 40m, then traverses sharply right on easy ground to the start of a pillar. The second pitch climbs the pillar, then traverses left and across a gully to where the route continues on the next section of wall. Pitches 3-5 are the heart of the route and ascend better quality rock with a variety of styles ranging from steep jugs to faces and slab. Pitch 6 walks up a full rope length to the next pitch where the rock steepens again, and then ends with a loose rightwards traverse. Pitches 8 and 9 continue up and right on easy, but mostly solid rock. The 10th pitch climbs a steep, exposed pilar and pulls over left at the end (don't follow the gold colored bolts to the right). From here pitches 11-13 follow up easy, loose rock to the top

Location Suggest change

From the parking lot head south for 50 m to the start of the "Drachenhöhle" hike. Follow the signs for about 45 min until you hit a steep rocky gully protected with bolted chain handrails. Around 50m before the chains begin, a cairn will mark a split off to the left on a climbers trail. Follow this as it leads up to the wall and then continue along the wall for ~100m to reach the start of the route. The start is marked with a rope band around a tree

Protection Suggest change

Bolts and bolted belays

Descent Suggest change

Follow a faint climbers trail to the right towards the summit. Keep walking around the backside of the mountain still following the faint, but distinguishable trail until you hit a fence. Turn to right just before the fence and keep descending passing remnents of wooden ladders and fence parts. The trail will eventually be marked with yellow/green spray paint on trees. Follow this for ~30 min until you reach the "Drachenhöhle" (huge obvious cave). From here follow the well established hiking trail (red-white-red markings) back to the parking lot. Approximately 60 min for the descent.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments