Type: Sport, 1030 ft (312 m), 10 pitches
FA: Matthias Pilz (2018)
Page Views: 282 total · 14/month
Shared By: Melanie Trobe on Nov 8, 2020
Admins: Phil Lauffen, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

At the magenta bolt start up easy slab to a steeper part of the wall. After this short steep section head to the left and the anchor. Continue up another slab section with deep pockets and head to the right after the second sanduhr across a grassy section (here the route crosses "Postlersteig"). Continue at the next magenta bolt to the anchor next to a tree. The next section starts with a somewhat reachy move to a big jug and traverses to the right on moderate slab after that. Pitch 4 crosses a grassy section to a sanduhr, head straight up at the first sanduhr (here "Postlersteig" crosses again) and belay at a tree before the wall steepens. The route continues at the next magenta bolt up a steep face (2 pitches). Pitch 6 starts with a harder move off some crimps that can be avoided on the right (easy, but unprotected slab). At the end of this pitch three routes are meeting at the anchor. "Broken soul" continues up the middle boltline and meets up again with "Postlersteig" at the next anchor (pass the anchor for "UFO" a bit before the end of pitch 9). Here take the right boltline (crux) to the end of the climb.

Link to topo.

Location

Park at "Rote Wand" parking lot and follow the logging road that continues to the west from the back of the lot. Follow this road until you see an intersection leading up to a wooden barn. Continue up th road to the right of the barn into the forest (red-white-red marking on tree). You will pass a sign that says "Mixnitz" (this leads down to the left and the town Mixnitz), continue up right and along a fence until you hit a grassy meadow (~30 min total).
A short connection splits off the main approach trail on the right towards the wall. Continue along this climbers trail for about 100 m until you see a magenta colored bolt.

Protection

Bolts, bolted anchors and natural belays.

Photos

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