Type: Sport, 310 ft (94 m), 3 pitches
GPS: 47.3262, 15.38616
FA: C. Trenkwalder and J. Gschnitzer (2017)
Page Views: 377 total · 6/month
Shared By: Melanie Trobe on Apr 25, 2021
Admins: Shawn Heath, Melanie Trobe

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Description Suggest change

A variation for the last three pitches of Kaiserschmarrn. The climbing is fun and varied, but the rock could use more traffic to clean up. After the 6th pitch of Kaiserschmarrn continue right across a steep, dirty gully to the wall underneath a large reddish roof with a big crack. Continue up a slb to the right of this crack , slowly traversing rightwards. At the end of the pitch the climbing straightens and steepens, before ending at a comfortable belay on the right. The final variation pitch continues up straght from the belay and traferses sligtly left over a small roof onto an easy slab. Continue up to the top on a mix of pockety slab and grassy blocks.

Location Suggest change

Park at "Rote Wand" parking lot and follow the logging road that continues to the west from the back of the lot. Follow this road until you see an intersection leading up to a wooden barn. Continue up the road to the right of the barn into the forest (red-white-red marking on tree). You will pass a sign that says "Mixnitz" (this leads down to the left and the town Mixnitz), continue up right and along a fence until you hit a grassy meadow (~30 min total).

From the side of the meadow continue along the trail into the woods on the other side. Continue on this for about 2 min until a climbers trail leads towards the wall. Continue on this trail until you see a grassy gully zig-zagging up towards the wall (LdL written in white on the rock, start of "Land des Lächelns"). Continue for about ten meters to the end of the wall and the start of "Kaiserschmarrn". If you continue on the forrest trail too far, it will start trending upwards and towards the descent of the leftmost routes (including "Tigerauge" and "Winnetouweg"). 

Climb the first 6 pitches of "Kaiserschmarrn" until the start of this variation.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts and bolted belays

Descent Suggest change

Two descent options are possible. 

To climbers left: Continue up slightly to the top, then continue along the marked trail which eventually leads to the grassy meadow, mentioned on the descents of routes such as "Eldorado" or "Winnetouweg". Stay skiers left to remain on the descent to "Rote Wand" parking lot. From the meadow follow the well walked trail that runs perpenticular along the edge of the cliff and is not marked, but fairly easy to find. Follow this trail stayin on the right it will lead along the bottom of a meadow and then continue further down along the base of the wall. You will hit the base of the wall rigt at the start of "Kaiserschmarren" and "Land des Lächelns". Continuing further you will pass other routs including "Broken Souls", "Elfengarten" and some others. At the end of the wall continue across a grassy meadow (see approach to "Elfengarten") and follow the trail back until you hit a logging road leading to the parking lot. When the logging road forks stay to the left (slightly uphill). The "Rote Wand" parking lot is just a few minutes from here. 

To climbers right: After finishing the route follow a well walked path down to the right. This will eventually hit the forest service road between "Röthelstein" and "Rote Wand" that continues downhill to the right, back to "Rote Wand" parking lot.

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