Land des Lächelns
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Type: | Sport, 750 ft (227 m), 9 pitches |
FA: | M. Poleschinski and G. Grabner (1986) |
Page Views: | 296 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Melanie Trobe on Apr 11, 2021 |
Admins: | Phil Lauffen, Shawn Heath |
Description
The route has a few exceptional pitches which are different from many routes in the area. Unfortunately there are some unintersting pitches and walking sections.
The route starts with a dificult slabby traverse (mental crux). While well bolted falling would not be good for the leader and especially the follower. The next three pitches contain a few interesting moves of climbing, but also a lot of grassy hiking (Belay at a tree, don´t continue too high up). At the end of pitch 3 continue through the gully rightwards to the steep wall of pitch 5. Pitch 5 is one of two reasons to do the route. It is a continous 30 m of steep climbing on smaller holds (crux), atypical for this area. Pitch 6 is short and leads up the left of a pillar on slopers and pinches. The next pitch starts on a slab, past a flake and leads into a steep dihedral. Exit the dihedral with a tricky step over to the right to a comfortable belay. Continue up over a small bulge to the last pitch, a short, but fun pockety slab.
A handdrawn topo is available here.
Location
Park at "Rote Wand" parking lot and follow the logging road that continues to the west from the back of the lot. Follow this road until you see an intersection leading up to a wooden barn. Continue up the road to the right of the barn into the forest (red-white-red marking on tree). You will pass a sign that says "Mixnitz" (this leads down to the left and the town Mixnitz), continue up right and along a fence until you hit a grassy meadow (~30 min total).
From the side of the meadow continue along the trail into the woods on the other side. Continue on this for about 2 min until a climbers trail leads towards the wall. Continue on this trail until you see a grassy gully zig-zagging up towards the wall (LdL written in white on the rock). Follow this narrow path up the wall; the bolts on the first traverse pitch should be visible. A short 5m scramble up and left to the start of the route is required.
If you continue on the forrest trail too far, it will start trending upwards and towards the descent of the leftmost routes (including "Tigerauge" and "Winnetouweg") and start of "Kaiserschmarrn".
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