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Early Access
Routes in The Acrophile
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Acrophilia T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Acrophobia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Badger Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Binary Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Black Powder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Claustrophobia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dead Deer Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Groovy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Iced Tea T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lithophyte T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pine Straw T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Shitty Surprise T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Slab in the Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Slabolishous T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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South Slabs T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Southern Comfort T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stiff Lipped T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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That '70s Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Twin Pillar T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Yawning Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Yellow Jersey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m) |
| GPS: | 40.17134, -105.36024 |
| FA: | B. Gillett, B. White, 2002 |
| Page Views: | 617 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jun 16, 2020 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
Binary Cracks is a good crack route that offers some good jamming and good protection along the way. In addition to the 80' pitch that is listed as independent climbing in the guidebook, one can add a starting pitch for 60' extra feet and a finish up a groove to total around 200'.
P1a. Start as for That '70s Route, and climb a 60 foot 5.8 crack pitch to the top of that short buttress With proper sling work, a belay may not be needed, and you could perhaps continue without terrible drag onto P2, but belaying might be for the best.
P1b. Start just to the right of P1 of That '70s Route in the back left side of an inset. Climb up some 5.8 O.W. until it becomes a hand-fist crack. Protect here, and then head up flakes and cracks to the base of P2 after 60 feet, where you will continue easily without a belay or any drag.
P2. Step over to the right of That '70s Route to join a overlapping crack system. This starts with a low right crack that ends a body length after a high left crack starts. The 5.9 crux is where the cracks run parallel and are a bit thinner, and it protects quite well. Finish up on the left crack to a ledge, now totaling perhaps 150' feet. The route formally ends here according to Gillett, but a low angle groove can be continued to the top for perhaps another 50'.
This can just barely be completed as a single pitch with a 60m rope if you started on the alternate (direct) start.
From the formal finish, you can descend via a walk off, or better yet, head for the summit and pick your way back down to the decent anchors as for Yellow Jersey, rapping 100' twice to reach the access ledge.
Location
This route starts as for That '70s Route or in an inset with an OW-fist crack just to the right, continues past the left/right overlapping cracks, and goes onto the summit in 200' total.
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