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Routes in The Acrophile

Acrophilia T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Acrophobia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Badger Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Powder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Claustrophobia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Deer Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iced Tea T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lithophyte T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pine Straw T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Shitty Surprise T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Slab in the Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slabolishous T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
South Slabs T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Stiff Lipped T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yawning Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Yellow Jersey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: B. Gillett, C. Hill, E. Roslansky, 2002
Page Views: 657 total, 10/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 19, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a great route with generally good stone and fantastic moves and position. A few more ascents will clean it up a little more still.

Acrophobia and Acrophelia share 2/3 of their climbing but follow different cruxes/finishes. Acrophilia requires large gear to protect. Arriving with no off-width gear and then seeing this set of climbs compelled us to do Acrophobia.

To do so, follow a set of discontinuous cracks from the left edge of this ledge. This starts in the far left-most, right-facing corner, NOT in the left-facing, lichenous corner a meter before that (dead end in lichen land). Climb up and right with good gear opportunities to and past a single bolt 40' up. Climb directly above the bolt on a long runner, then just above that, hand traverse directly right into the very bottom of a shallow, right-facing corner below the roof. Establish yourself here, and then punch up the corner. If you place gear here, walk it up or use long slings, or both. Arrive at good jams and rest just below the roof and get in some good gear with long slings in the corner and in the roof (hand-sized cams and a #3 Camalot). Big exposure awaits. Punch it out and left through the horizontal/diagonal crack in the roof and around the corner. Get up to a vertical hands-to-off-hands crack that leads to the top. Use slings on gear here since the anchor is out to the right and the crack has a high-friction right side. Rap ~100' to the ledge from the anchor. A 60m should be just fine.

Location

This route lies near the left edge of the Acrophile. Access the base of the cliff and head left until you are below some massive roof systems 100' up or so. The climb going up a braided crack system to an shallow, hanging, right-facing dihedral at the edge of the right-most of these sets of roofs is Lithophyte.

Further left of there a rocky/grassy ramp and ledge system leads up and left under the roofs to the left of the Lithophyte roof.

Quick examination of these roofs to the left will reveal that one of them is bordered on its right side by a large offwidth above (this is Acrophelia), and split through the ledge back to center by a hand-to-fist crack coming out horizontally through that edge (this is Acrophobia). Climb up onto the rocky ledge/ramp and make your way left as far as you can.

Perhaps 6 meters before reaching the end of the ledge you will see a few bolts overhead by some features on the wall. This is the 5.11b alternate start of Acrophobia/Acrophelia. The traditional start is yet to your left.

A set of discontinuous cracks starting from the left edge of this ledge is the beginning of this route.

Protection

While the book suggests rack to an old #4 Camalot, I did not need/place the #4 in the meat of the climb. I admit to dumping it in 5.5 territory just before hitting the anchor up top to get my partner to carry it.

Personally I'd advise a standard rack to 3.5" up to a #3 Camalot will do just fine. Take an extra piece of each cam in the 2-3" range. The protection is all there and can be reasonably safe, but some skill with rope management will be needed for the sling-work to keep the drag off of you in this long and somewhat winding route.

Photos

Shadrock
Here and there.
 
Shadrock   Here and there.
 
Very fun route: props to the FAs. It's worth taking a brush with you: lots of lichen down low makes things a bit slippery. Can confirm that a 60 will get you to the ledge. Nov 26, 2016
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
If someone goes to do this thing - take a photographer with you. It would be a wild shoot. Aug 20, 2012