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Routes in The Acrophile

Acrophilia T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Acrophobia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Badger Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Powder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Claustrophobia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Deer Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iced Tea T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lithophyte T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pine Straw T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Shitty Surprise T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Slab in the Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slabolishous T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
South Slabs T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Stiff Lipped T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yawning Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Yellow Jersey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Bernard Gillett, Brad White, Jason Cushner, Dave Warowski, Thad Eggen, Chris Hill, 2002
Page Views: 606 total, 6/month
Shared By: Luke Clarke on Nov 12, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This climb ascends a left-facing crack system to a right-facing dihedral on the skyline when viewed from the base. The cracks at the bottom will improve if more traffic cleans up some of the grunge.
The upper dihedral, however, is whistle clean. Getting established in it is the crux. Some fun mixed trad/bolted climbing follows to a two-bolt chain anchor. You can rap from there on a single rope to a ledge with easy down-climb options.

Location

The route is on the southwest face near where the approach described in Gillett's St. Vrain guide brings you to the crag. It begins in a left-facing, slightly grungy crack system just to the right of a face under large roofs.

Protection

Small wires to cams of 3".
Ben Burnett
Colorado
  5.10a/b
Ben Burnett   Colorado
  5.10a/b
Quite a bit harder than the 9+ routes on the crag. Steep, juggy, and grungy - but still fun - at the bottom. I'm glad we TRed it instead of warming up with it on lead. Be careful where you place gear in the first third of the climb. May 27, 2012