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Routes in The Acrophile

Acrophilia T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Acrophobia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Badger Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Powder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Claustrophobia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Deer Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iced Tea T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lithophyte T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pine Straw T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Shitty Surprise T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Slab in the Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slabolishous T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Slabophilia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
South Slabs T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Stiff Lipped T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yawning Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Yellow Jersey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Bernard Gillett and Eric Roslansky, 2002
Page Views: 168 total · 2/month
Shared By: Dave Holliday on Dec 20, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a fun three-pitch route that goes to the summit of the formation. It has a very awkward crux pitch.

The first pitch goes up nebulous terrain to a right-facing corner with a bulge. Make awkward moves to surmount the bulge, go up a low-angle wide crack, and then cut up and left via a handcrack to a small shelf with a bolted rappel anchor (5.7, 100 feet).

The second pitch can be seen at this point, and it's a left-leaning finger and hand crack. Climb easily up and left from the belay to a stance below an obvious bolt. Go up a corner to the left of the bolt and then climb the left-leaning crack; after the leaning crack fun, climb straight up to a finger crack in a corner capped by a small roof. Surmount the roof to arrive on a large ledge (5.10, 100 feet).

The last pitch starts with a wide-hands crack (or fist depending on your hand size) and then climbs easily to the summit (5.8, 40 feet).

A few notes: we linked the last two pitches.

We also gardened out dirt from the crux section of the second pitch.

We inadvertently added a crux to the second pitch by climbing past the bolt and then going up and left via another awkward crack. We then stepped over to the left to get back on route.

Location

Get yourself to the access ledge that runs across most of the rock. On its left side you'll see a steep, bolted slab with a roof above it split by a crack (that's the route Stiff Lipped). This route starts just to the left; you're aiming for a right-facing corner with a crack through a bulge.

We descended from a rappel anchor from the summit (best to belay one another to the anchor) and then rappelled to the anchor at the top of pitch one. The guidebook topo indicates "100ft+" for this rappel. We used a 70m rope and were fine, but I think you'd come up short with a 60m. Rappel once more back down to the access ledge.

Protection

Standard rack up to a #3 Camalot. I don't remember using anything smaller than a 0.3 Camalot.

Photos

Rich Kelly
Boulder
  5.10
Rich Kelly   Boulder
  5.10
We also started the 2nd pitch via the bolt and strenuous, awkward crack (Yellow Jersey route) since the described start seemed harder and more committing (big ledge below it). The topo shows it is at only 5.9, so maybe we missed some trick to it? We also did some gardening in the diagonal crack too. This is a very continuous and challenging pitch and will get better/cleaner with more ascents. Jun 4, 2012
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c PG13
The start as described in the book is indeed harder than 5.9 and has a hungry ledge below. Don't mess it up.... Probably 10c. Aug 19, 2012

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