Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Acrophile

Acrophilia T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Acrophobia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Badger Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Powder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Claustrophobia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Deer Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iced Tea T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lithophyte T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pine Straw T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Shitty Surprise T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Slab in the Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slabolishous T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
South Slabs T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Stiff Lipped T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yawning Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Yellow Jersey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: B. Gillett, D. Snively, 2002
Page Views: 142 total, 1/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jan 3, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This climb starts where the 4th class approach deposits you on the ledge system.

P1: (5.7, 75 feet, 2 stars) Follow one of the 5.6-5.7 crack systems to the right of the 5.11 bolted slab. Belay on the ledge to the right of the RF dihedral.

P2: (5.9+, 75 feet, 2 stars) The crux pitch climbs a fun, RF dihedral with arching roof. I would recommend placing gear in the right seam and using long runners on the gear in the roof. I guess the rope will jam in the roof crack. Belay at two pins.

P3: (5.5, 100 feet, 1 star) Follow thin cracks in the blunt arete, and traverse left under the summit block. Follow broken terrain up and right to rap anchors.

Rap 2 times from 2-bolt anchors. A 70m is nice, since the rappels are right at 100 feet.

Location

Follow the 4th class approach to the upper ledge system.

Protection

Rack to #3 Camalot, w/ doubles in large fingers ---> hands....

Photos

Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
 
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
 
At the roof lip, we didn't see how it would be possible to place gear on right as described here and also in Gillett's guidebook, that crack is not even close by.

You do not want to leave any gear at the lip the roof! Your rope can get caught with the gear and be very difficult to pull. Better would be to place pro at lip, make the lip move, place more pro higher in crack then reach back down to remove the pro at the lip. Dec 28, 2014
Ben Burnett
Colorado
  5.9+
Ben Burnett   Colorado
  5.9+
Great climb, nice cracks, good gear at the cruxes. I combined the first 2 pitches, didn't find any pins, but belayed on very small cams at the base of the gully. Used doubles of most cams up to a #2 Camalot. The #3 was good to have after the crux. I ran the rope over the roof (not around the end of the roof) and had no concerns about it getting into the crack. May 27, 2012