Type: Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 306 total · 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 10, 2020
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays Details


This is another route that would improve with traffic. While there are some lichenous sections, the protection and holds are generally all good. It is a 1 star route for now (worth doing) but could become a 2-star route with a brushing or more traffic.

The route is 2 pitches long but is easily, and without much drag, linked into a single long pitch as we did it.

P1 (5.7, PG-13).  Start on the crack and gunny system just to the right of The Mushroom. Climb up some unappealing rock to get into a crack system, and then head up the cracks at the left edge of the feature that The Mushroom climbs until you reach the top. Traverse over and clip one of the belay chains here and continue climbing... or belay of you must.

P2 (5.8-, PG-13). Having clipped one of the belay chains on The Mushroom as a point of protection, mantel up on the top of that spire, & step forward onto the wall above, as if continuing on The Mushroom's P2. You can clip the first bolt here with a long runner if you want the protection. Head up and right into and obvious, left-facing crack and flake system, which rapidly becomes steep and jam-able. Protect the thick crack, and head up through a bulge and into lower angle cracks that lead to the ledge atop the rock.

A belay on this ledge is not easy to find immediately. To solve this, we headed left, placing a few small cams and a nut as directionals on the way to the top belay for The Mushroom, where we planned to descend via 2 single rope raps anyway.

Rap 60' then 90' to the ground from here.


This route crosses The Mushroom at the belay as for The Mushroom. It starts to the left on natural features & finished to the right on natural features. The Gillett guidebook mentions that Mason Frichette climbed here in the '70s. I'd presume that this might be one of the features he climbed.


A double rack of nuts and cams + a quiver of shoulder length slings to do this as a single long pitch, as it is best done.


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