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Routes in Mushroom Massif

Cold Water Drama T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Easy Street T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freewheelin' T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Godspeed T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Granitude T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lichen Psilocybin T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Locked and Loaded T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Mongoose T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mushroom, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quartz Dancer T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: Cameron Landis
Page Views: 62 total, 0/month
Shared By: Umph! on Feb 12, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Bring a small, small/medium rack for supplemental between the bolts and at top (something larger if you want a facey belay).

For the rap: follow the gutter (at top of climb) up and left for the anchors at the neighboring route, or go straight up and head right to the big Ponderosa for a quick rap back into the gully/base of route.

This is good MM granite climbing following a "naturalish" line (although 5 bolts were needed), in a very cool location. . . see the attached picture to help with approach.

It is mostly face climbing that accesses some short cracks/seams. The crux is at the top face/bulge.

I put this route up last year (winter?), and it receives good midday sun - the gully may have snow in it however.

Location

See the photo.

Hike around the north face (all the way around, past Coldwater Drama and Stone Knives) of MM and head up into the first, obvious gully (with the small, sentinel Doug-fir), past the Mongoose route and past yet another bolted route (?) (approx. 40' from gully entrance). The trail is rather distinct.

This rock is actually detached from the main Mushroom Massif.

Protection

Bolts and small to medium gear. It has a nice top-out for a belay, and you can rap via tree or neighboring anchors.

Photos

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