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Routes in Mushroom Massif

Cold Water Drama T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Easy Street T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freewheelin' T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Godspeed T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Granitude T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lichen Psilocybin T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Locked and Loaded T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Mongoose T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mushroom, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quartz Dancer T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Cameron Landis
Page Views: 89 total, 1/month
Shared By: Umph! on Feb 8, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is fun 5.8 that's mostly 5.4 - 5.7. I believe there are 3 or 4, 5.8 moves.

Start at the wide crack that tapers to nothing, moving left to right. Once the crack ends continue up the obvious short seam (with room for pro), moving left at its top to the first bolt.

From here, move left and up into the obvious crack to the ledge. Clip the second bolt and climb up:

You'll need your two micro cams (purple and blue Aliens) for protection above the bolt enroute to the top. Place the purple first, then step up to the small horizontal crack, and place the blue. . . . Step up and reach high for the jug atop the final ledge.'

Some may find the last move or two above the second bolt a bit sketchy as the small Aliens aren't too great, though worthy. . . but if you're okay with 5.8, and setting pro, then it won't be a problem.

Location

This is on the far right side of the Mushroom Massive complex, when viewing from the road. It is right of Wookie and Unknown (the crag across the "corridor" from these).

You can start by scrambling to the ramp at the base of the routes, or from the ground.

NOTE: if you start from the ground, you'll need a two rope rap or a 70m rope to return to the ground. I don't find the scramble up or down from the ramp too bad, and if you start from on the upper-ramp, then it's 100 feet.

The rap station is (two bolts) at the top ledge.

Protection

Alien rack, nuts, and something larger for the lower section of the first crack. . . you may need an extra black (large) and purple Alien.

There are two bolts and rap anchors at the top.

Photos

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Regarding the finish: The second bolt isn't far enough above a big ledge to do much good. The first piece above the bolt is a sketchy blue Alien. Placing a tinier cam (like a Zero?) or ball nut may, or may not, be possible a short distance farther up the left-angling seam. A green Alien fits shallowly in a horizontal, above, protecting the long reach over the top. This is NOT for the 5.8 leader. I think you have to be tall for this to be 5.8.

The lower part of the climb takes C4s from #0.5 thru #4. A yellow Alien was useful. Rope drag may force you to belay on the ledge under the second bolt. Around the left edge of the ledge are placements for #1 and #2 C4s; you can redirect through the bolt, and it can be the first pro of the second pitch. May 4, 2015