Avg: 1 from 1 vote
Routes in Mushroom Massif
|Cold Water Drama T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Easy Street T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Freewheelin' T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Godspeed T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Granitude T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Lichen Psilocybin T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Locked and Loaded T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Mongoose T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Mushroom, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Quartz Dancer T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Unknown T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 170 ft|
|FA:||Matt Juth, Dave Loring|
|Page Views:||76 total, 0/month|
|Shared By:||Matt Juth on Apr 13, 2004|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis route is on the formation to the east of Mushroom Massif (Afungusamongus). It is a few hundred feet from Stone Knives and separated from Mushroom by a Monastery-like chasm. It climbs past four bolts to reach the prominent dihedral crack and then face climbs up easy terrain to the top of the formation. It took 170 feet of rope to climb and set up the belay. There are a couple good steep face climbs to Mongoose's right which will be bolted and cleaned soon.
The climb begins at a small tree at the entrance to the gully. Climb up flakes (directly behind the tree)to reach a sloping ledge, put in a piece with a long runner under the large flake to the right, step up and right to gain the arete and first bolt. Climb past the first three bolts (crux), step right, and climb past the last bolt to the base of the dihedral.
The dihedral is pretty easy (maybe a move of 5.6 or 5.7 in there), and continues for 50 or 60 feet. At the midpoint of the dihedral, there is a section where the rope will jam in the crack (hence the route name). We jammed a few small pebbles in there (to keep this from happening to others), but they won't stay in there for ever. A well placed nut will eliminate the problem. Be aware!
At the end of the dihedral, large features to the left lead up easy runout climbing to a large ledge. Climb 10 feet above the ledge and set up the belay. A #1 Camalot and 2 Camalot, and a few large nuts can be placed. Walk off to the top off the gully and descend.
The route contains a lot of lichen. It would not get a star anywhere but the SSV.