Type: Trad, Sport, 170 ft
FA: Matt Juth, Dave Loring
Page Views: 243 total · 1/month
Shared By: Matt Juth on Apr 13, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route is on the formation to the east of Mushroom Massif (Afungusamongus). It is a few hundred feet from Stone Knives and separated from Mushroom by a Monastery-like chasm. It climbs past four bolts to reach the prominent dihedral crack and then face climbs up easy terrain to the top of the formation. It took 170 feet of rope to climb and set up the belay. There are a couple good steep face climbs to Mongoose's right which will be bolted and cleaned soon.

The climb begins at a small tree at the entrance to the gully. Climb up flakes (directly behind the tree)to reach a sloping ledge, put in a piece with a long runner under the large flake to the right, step up and right to gain the arete and first bolt. Climb past the first three bolts (crux), step right, and climb past the last bolt to the base of the dihedral.

The dihedral is pretty easy (maybe a move of 5.6 or 5.7 in there), and continues for 50 or 60 feet. At the midpoint of the dihedral, there is a section where the rope will jam in the crack (hence the route name). We jammed a few small pebbles in there (to keep this from happening to others), but they won't stay in there for ever. A well placed nut will eliminate the problem. Be aware!

At the end of the dihedral, large features to the left lead up easy runout climbing to a large ledge. Climb 10 feet above the ledge and set up the belay. A #1 Camalot and 2 Camalot, and a few large nuts can be placed. Walk off to the top off the gully and descend.

The route contains a lot of lichen. It would not get a star anywhere but the SSV.

Protection

4 bolts and a standard rack. Save a few medium pieces for the belay.

Photos