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Routes in Mushroom Massif

Cold Water Drama T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Easy Street T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freewheelin' T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Godspeed T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Granitude T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lichen Psilocybin T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Locked and Loaded T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Mongoose T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mushroom, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quartz Dancer T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 170 ft
FA: Matt Juth, Dave Loring
Page Views: 76 total, 0/month
Shared By: Matt Juth on Apr 13, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route is on the formation to the east of Mushroom Massif (Afungusamongus). It is a few hundred feet from Stone Knives and separated from Mushroom by a Monastery-like chasm. It climbs past four bolts to reach the prominent dihedral crack and then face climbs up easy terrain to the top of the formation. It took 170 feet of rope to climb and set up the belay. There are a couple good steep face climbs to Mongoose's right which will be bolted and cleaned soon.

The climb begins at a small tree at the entrance to the gully. Climb up flakes (directly behind the tree)to reach a sloping ledge, put in a piece with a long runner under the large flake to the right, step up and right to gain the arete and first bolt. Climb past the first three bolts (crux), step right, and climb past the last bolt to the base of the dihedral.

The dihedral is pretty easy (maybe a move of 5.6 or 5.7 in there), and continues for 50 or 60 feet. At the midpoint of the dihedral, there is a section where the rope will jam in the crack (hence the route name). We jammed a few small pebbles in there (to keep this from happening to others), but they won't stay in there for ever. A well placed nut will eliminate the problem. Be aware!

At the end of the dihedral, large features to the left lead up easy runout climbing to a large ledge. Climb 10 feet above the ledge and set up the belay. A #1 Camalot and 2 Camalot, and a few large nuts can be placed. Walk off to the top off the gully and descend.

The route contains a lot of lichen. It would not get a star anywhere but the SSV.

Protection

4 bolts and a standard rack. Save a few medium pieces for the belay.

Photos

Matt Juth
Evergreen
 
Matt Juth   Evergreen
 
Overall, the climbing is fun and it is a good line. The lichen just makes the moves more nervy than they have to be, and detracts from the quality. The rock is solid on the face sections, there is just some loose stuff in the crack that you wouldn't use for holds, but still need to be aware of. Also look for exfoliating potato chips while climbing the crack section.

Watch rope drag at the start and at the top. Bring long slings. Apr 19, 2004