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Routes in Mushroom Massif

Cold Water Drama T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Easy Street T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freewheelin' T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Godspeed T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Granitude T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lichen Psilocybin T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Locked and Loaded T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Mongoose T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mushroom, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quartz Dancer T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Landis
Page Views: 95 total · 1/month
Shared By: Umph! on Feb 2, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

There are four new routes on the westerly face of Mushroom Massif (MM). As per the picture, Freewheelin' is 5.8+ and is the first route on the left.

P1. Begin climbing 10' left of the pine tree on the ledge. Move up the small broken dihedral (the left most) and then left to the perch and face where bolt #1 is located. Move up to the small alcove and then up the cracks/face to bolt #2. Traverse the face right (can place a cam if desire) and then up the flake and ledge. Move up to bolt #3, and run it to the top through the horn and flake.

The crux is probably the traverse. Bring small gear for between the bolts and an orange Alien for the ledge before the 3rd bolt. Rap from P1 on bolts and chains.

P2. Continue up the easy crack system directly above the rap anchors. Once at the short headwall follow the seam up and left, and run it to the top. Be sure to use the micro-cam placements (x2) and set a bomber below before running this up. This is 5.8+ as well and relatively short but will deliver you to the top.

You can also take the large guttercrack right of the rap chains of P1, at about 5.4 climbing, up to the large "cap" boulder with rap anchors. Rap down to P1 anchors or to the ground if you have 2 ropes.

This is a fun, solid climb with excellent sunshine and views; also, it is not overprotected.

Location / Getting There

Park riverside before the turn that brings you to December Wall. The ice bridge (directly down) is obvious and the only one within sight (wade during the flowing season) - cross here and follow the trail/cairns. To reach the pine tree ledge you can free solo 5.5 for 4 moves to the ledges north end and then traverse south, or you can climb up some uncleaned rock for 1/4 pitch to the base of the pine.

Protection

3 bolts; Alien and small nut rack. P1 has rap bolts; P2 has rap bolts.

Photos

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