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Locked and Loaded
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Mushroom Massif
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Body Snatcher T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Canto T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Cold Water Drama T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Easy Street T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Freewheelin' T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Godspeed T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Granitude T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Grip T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Katrina S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lichen Psilocybin T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Locked and Loaded T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Mongoose T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Mushroom, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pollemor T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Quartz Dancer T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Raven's Nest T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Landis |
| Page Views: | 696 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Umph! on Feb 2, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
Per Kai Bouwman: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022.
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
(I say PG-13 only because there isn't perfect gear t/o the entire climb).
Begin left of the large flake (Godspeed, 5.12), with a bouldery start to reach the ledge. Place a cam (yellow Alien) and traverse/mount the ledge. Climb straight up the flake (note that the out-of-sight crack/flake on the right is necessary for hands,and eventually gear. Follow the obvious traditional line up to the small vertical wall and quasi-rest. Move up and left smearing with body english (watch the barn door!). This should make you a bit nervous, but once your feet are up a bomber cam can be placed in the upper crack. I think that there are 2 cruxes with this being the last.
Rap from the chains on the ledge (Freewheelin').
This is a fun climb on and is fairly sustained. I climbed this on self-belay (manual feed), so the rating may be a bit off. Also, see Freewheelin' and main MM photos.
Begin left of the large flake (Godspeed, 5.12), with a bouldery start to reach the ledge. Place a cam (yellow Alien) and traverse/mount the ledge. Climb straight up the flake (note that the out-of-sight crack/flake on the right is necessary for hands,and eventually gear. Follow the obvious traditional line up to the small vertical wall and quasi-rest. Move up and left smearing with body english (watch the barn door!). This should make you a bit nervous, but once your feet are up a bomber cam can be placed in the upper crack. I think that there are 2 cruxes with this being the last.
Rap from the chains on the ledge (Freewheelin').
This is a fun climb on and is fairly sustained. I climbed this on self-belay (manual feed), so the rating may be a bit off. Also, see Freewheelin' and main MM photos.
Protection
Standard Aliens and nuts with extra set of small cams (yellow - blue) - also one 2" and one 3" can be used near the top.
Location / Getting There
Park riverside before the turn that brings you to December Wall (and the outhouse parking lot). The ice bridge (directly down) is obvious and the only one within sight - cross here and follow the trail/cairns. To reach the pinetree ledge, you can free solo 5.5 for 4 moves to the ledges north end and then traverse south, or you can climb up some uncleaned rock for 1/4 pitch to the base of the pine. From the tree, traverse south across the "chute" (be delicate with the rocks/boulders) and up to the climb. Also, you can climb P1 of Wookie (Hubbel, Lyon's Area guide).
Photos
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