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Routes in Mushroom Massif

Cold Water Drama T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Easy Street T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freewheelin' T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Godspeed T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Granitude T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lichen Psilocybin T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Locked and Loaded T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Mongoose T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mushroom, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quartz Dancer T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Landis
Page Views: 67 total, 0/month
Shared By: Umph! on Feb 2, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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(I say PG-13 only because there isn't perfect gear t/o the entire climb).

Begin left of the large flake (Godspeed, 5.12), with a bouldery start to reach the ledge. Place a cam (yellow Alien) and traverse/mount the ledge. Climb straight up the flake (note that the out-of-sight crack/flake on the right is necessary for hands,and eventually gear. Follow the obvious traditional line up to the small vertical wall and quasi-rest. Move up and left smearing with body english (watch the barn door!). This should make you a bit nervous, but once your feet are up a bomber cam can be placed in the upper crack. I think that there are 2 cruxes with this being the last.

Rap from the chains on the ledge (Freewheelin').

This is a fun climb on and is fairly sustained. I climbed this on self-belay (manual feed), so the rating may be a bit off. Also, see Freewheelin' and main MM photos.


Standard Aliens and nuts with extra set of small cams (yellow - blue) - also one 2" and one 3" can be used near the top.

Location / Getting There

Park riverside before the turn that brings you to December Wall (and the outhouse parking lot). The ice bridge (directly down) is obvious and the only one within sight - cross here and follow the trail/cairns. To reach the pinetree ledge, you can free solo 5.5 for 4 moves to the ledges north end and then traverse south, or you can climb up some uncleaned rock for 1/4 pitch to the base of the pine. From the tree, traverse south across the "chute" (be delicate with the rocks/boulders) and up to the climb. Also, you can climb P1 of Wookie (Hubbel, Lyon's Area guide).


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