Locked and Loaded
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
Routes in Mushroom Massif
|Cold Water Drama T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Easy Street T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Freewheelin' T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Godspeed T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Granitude T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Lichen Psilocybin T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Locked and Loaded T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Mongoose T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Mushroom, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Quartz Dancer T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Unknown T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft|
|Page Views:||67 total, 0/month|
|Shared By:||Umph! on Feb 2, 2006|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
Description(I say PG-13 only because there isn't perfect gear t/o the entire climb).
Begin left of the large flake (Godspeed, 5.12), with a bouldery start to reach the ledge. Place a cam (yellow Alien) and traverse/mount the ledge. Climb straight up the flake (note that the out-of-sight crack/flake on the right is necessary for hands,and eventually gear. Follow the obvious traditional line up to the small vertical wall and quasi-rest. Move up and left smearing with body english (watch the barn door!). This should make you a bit nervous, but once your feet are up a bomber cam can be placed in the upper crack. I think that there are 2 cruxes with this being the last.
Rap from the chains on the ledge (Freewheelin').
This is a fun climb on and is fairly sustained. I climbed this on self-belay (manual feed), so the rating may be a bit off. Also, see Freewheelin' and main MM photos.
ProtectionStandard Aliens and nuts with extra set of small cams (yellow - blue) - also one 2" and one 3" can be used near the top.
Location / Getting TherePark riverside before the turn that brings you to December Wall (and the outhouse parking lot). The ice bridge (directly down) is obvious and the only one within sight - cross here and follow the trail/cairns. To reach the pinetree ledge, you can free solo 5.5 for 4 moves to the ledges north end and then traverse south, or you can climb up some uncleaned rock for 1/4 pitch to the base of the pine. From the tree, traverse south across the "chute" (be delicate with the rocks/boulders) and up to the climb. Also, you can climb P1 of Wookie (Hubbel, Lyon's Area guide).
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