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Routes in Mushroom Massif

Cold Water Drama T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Easy Street T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freewheelin' T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Godspeed T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Granitude T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lichen Psilocybin T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Locked and Loaded T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Mongoose T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mushroom, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quartz Dancer T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 105 ft
FA: Rob 'The Rock' DeZonia
Page Views: 125 total, 1/month
Shared By: half-pad-mini-jug on May 28, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route is located on the left side of the formation on the buttress in front of the corridors. This fun route starts on the right side of a small roof at the base and trends leftward towards the dihedral and the large crack at the top of the formation.

Start off with dicey moves on the edge of the roof, clip 2 bolts and make a leftward traverse with supplemental gear to the dihedral. Once in the dihedral, clip 8 more bolts with some technical stemming up the bright green lichen face. Clip your last bolt and head into the final crack up slightly overhanging rock using supplemental gear to a 2-bolt anchor. There are multiple cruxes at the start, in the dihedral, and exiting the final crack. This has quality movement on varied quality rock, the space between the 2nd and 3rd bolt is easy climbing on not-so-good rock, but after the 3rd bolt, the rock is good to the anchors. This is fun climbing, good job, Rob.

Location

This is on the lefthand buttress of the Massif (see the photo).

Protection

10 bolts, small to fist-sized cams for the cracks, 2-bolt anchor. This is a long route, but we were able to do it with a 60m rope.

Photos

This route has some grainy rock typical to the Mushroom Massif. The opening power crux has some awesome crystal like jugs to mantle off, followed by a delicated foot traverse to the crack and a stance. The corner is pretty sustained 5.10 that climbs like a face. I love the steep 10- hand crack at the top that widens to ow through a bulge right before the anchor. It's smooth rock in the crack, so I didn't need tape. For the Massif, it's one of a kind! Sep 1, 2009