Type: Sport, 140 ft
FA: Scott Ayers & Henry Means - 1992
Page Views: 154 total · 19/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jul 17, 2018
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Rivaling even it's amazing neighbor, Anything Goes, this is a great rock climb. The crux is long and complex, and the climbing throughout superb.

Begin by climbing the first pitch of Never Say Never (11d) or Anything Goes (12a). The former is a bit easier but perhaps creates more rope drag. Both are excellent. Either way, to reduce rope drag/weight, I recommend pulling the rope and dropping it back down to your belayer from the intermediate anchor or just bringing your belayer up to this point and climbing the route as two pitches.

From the ledge, move right and up to gain a flake system. Exciting climbing up this leads to a tricky and extended crux sequence traversing left that ultimately concludes at a stance. From here, easier face climbing leads to an anchor shared with Never Say Never at the top of the wall.

With an 80m rope, you can just make it down to the ground with stretch (knot your ends). With a shorter rope, lower twice.

Protection

20 or so draws to equip both pitches.

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